Repair      09/20/2023

Accessories for metal tiles. What additional elements are needed for a metal roof? Additional elements and ventilation

The popularity of metal roofs is explained by their reliability, durability and beautiful appearance. Additional elements used for metal tiles differ in their shape, size and purpose. They are necessary to protect against dust and moisture getting under the roof, and also allow you to decorate the roof and give it a finished appearance. For the manufacture of metal roofing elements, the same materials are most often used as for the main covering.

The main elements of a metal roof

In order for a metal tile roof to serve for a long time and reliably protect the roof and house from the negative effects of external factors, all joints, abutments and eaves must be covered with special elements. They are usually made of the same material as the main covering, and not only protect the roof from leaks, but also significantly improve its appearance.

Additional elements allow you to increase the tightness and durability of the roof, as well as give it an aesthetic and finished look

When creating a roof made of metal tiles, it is imperative to use additional elements that allow you to solve the following problems:

  • increase the strength and tightness of the roof at the joints;
  • hide the joints and give the coating an aesthetic appearance;
  • protect the under-roof space from moisture, dust and debris;
  • give the roof the necessary performance characteristics, thereby increasing its durability.

Construction stores offer a large selection of additional elements for metal roofing, which allow you to equip a roof of any complexity.

Additional elements for metal tile roofing are usually made of galvanized painted steel. When purchasing them, you can save money, for example, by using a product made of ordinary galvanization for the lower valley, and a polymer-coated part for the outer valley.

Those elements that are located in plain sight must have a polymer anti-corrosion coating and correspond to the type of the main roof. This way you can not only ensure the tightness of the roof, but also make the roof beautiful and attractive.

In order for a metal tile roof to serve as long as possible, all joints and joints must be covered with additional elements

Gutter holders

Gutter brackets can vary in type and size, as well as the material from which they are made. Gutter holders can be made of plastic or galvanized iron with a protective polymer coating. Usually they are chosen to match the gutters, but they can also be of a contrasting shade - it all depends on the preferences of the owners.

There are three main designs of gutter holders:

  1. Long - have an elongated mounting strip, mounted to the rafters or sheathing before laying the main covering.
  2. Short ones also have the form of a hook, the mounting base of which is combined with the rear part. Such brackets are usually installed after laying the roofing material and are attached to the front board or to the ends of the rafters.
  3. Universal - they are collapsible elements with a short holder and a removable strip, so they can be used at any stage of creating a roof.

The correct choice of holders eliminates unnecessary actions and costs during their installation. For example, if a roof is being repaired, it is better to use short or universal holders. When constructing a new roof structure, preference should be given to long hooks, as they provide a stronger and more reliable fixation of the gutters.

The method of attaching brackets for gutters should be selected based on the capabilities provided by the roof structure

It is better to purchase gutters and brackets for attaching them in one place and at once. The installation step for metal holders is 50–60 cm, and for plastic ones – 30–35 cm.

Gutter for water drainage

A metal roof, like any other roof, will not function properly without gutters. These elements serve to collect and drain melt and rain water from the roof surface.

Gutters vary in the material they are made from. For a roof covered with metal tiles, gutters made of:

  1. Metal. This is the most popular option, as they not only reliably drain water, but also have high strength, rigidity and durability. Such elements have a special coating that protects them from the negative effects of aggressive environments, so with proper use they will last 30 years or more. The disadvantage of metal products is their heavy weight.
  2. Plastic. They combine beautifully with both metal tiles and other types of roofing, are not afraid of corrosion and are light in weight. They also have disadvantages: they make a lot of noise and can crack when water freezes.

According to the cross-sectional shape, gutters can be:

  • round;
  • oval;
  • square or rectangular.

If your climate zone has little rainfall, then you should not purchase wide rectangular gutters. A universal solution is considered to be round products, the diameter of which is determined taking into account the region of construction.

Most often, round gutters are used on country houses, the diameter of which depends on the region of construction.

The eaves strip is necessary to protect the front board from moisture. It is located under the edge of the metal tile and is installed on the finished sheathing immediately before installing the finishing coating. This part of the roof is usually chosen to match the color of the main roofing material, but sometimes people who prefer unexpected solutions install contrasting additional elements that sharply distinguish the building from a series of similar structures.

For the manufacture of cornice strips, steel sheets with a thickness of 0.4–0.5 mm are used. Plastisol or polyester is usually used as a coating. The standard length of the strip is 50–60 cm, their number is calculated based on the size of the roof and the amount of overlap.

The cornice strip is attached to the front board with self-tapping screws, which are screwed in in increments of 30–35 cm.

The eaves strip is attached to the front board with an inclination towards the gutters

Another additional element is the junction strip. It is necessary to ensure insulation of the roof in places where it adjoins pipes, ventilation shafts, parapets, etc. This element performs an important protective function; it creates a tight and reliable connection through which water cannot penetrate into the under-roof space.

There are two types of junction strips: upper and lower. The lower strip is mounted under the metal tile, and the upper one is mounted above it. In addition, such elements can be straight, having an obtuse, acute or right angle of conjugation.

The junction strip is installed at the exit points of chimneys, ventilation shafts and similar elements

The abutment strips are made from sheet steel; they are usually matched in color with the base coating. Fastening is done using self-tapping screws with sealing washers. For additional sealing, sealant or special seals are used.

Valley roof

The end strip protects the edges of the sheathing and the under-roof space from moisture and gusts of wind and gives the building a finished look

A metal tile roof protects the house well, but this material does not “breathe”, so it is necessary to provide high-quality ventilation of the under-roof space. To do this, ventilation outlets are installed that look like small chimneys.

Ventilation of the under-roof space can be continuous or targeted. The organization of continuous air exchange is carried out before laying the tiles. When using spot ventilation, air flows are directed to specially equipped outlets, which are installed on the roof next to its ridge.

For a roof with an area of ​​up to 60 m2, one ventilation outlet will be sufficient; for larger roof sizes, several will be required. When the roof has a complex shape, ventilation outlets must be installed near each ridge.

The ventilation outlet must be installed at a distance of at least 0.6 m from the roof ridge

The installation location of the ventilation outlet is chosen at the discretion of the owner, but in any case it should be no further than 60 cm from the ridge. It is not recommended to install two such elements on one sheet of metal tiles.

When choosing a ventilation outlet, you need to pay attention to the following points:

  • The profile of the ventilation outlet cover must correspond to the profile of the roofing material;
  • the colors of all roof ventilation elements must match;
  • The kit must include fasteners, a template and overlays;
  • the larger the pipe diameter, the greater the throughput of the element, but also the higher its cost;
  • the presence of additional functions (this may be a built-in level that simplifies the installation process, a mechanical or electric fan) affects the ease of installation of the element and its price.

Video: ventilation outlet for metal tiles

Sewage outlet for metal tiles

If the house has a sewer system, it is necessary to provide for its ventilation, for which a drain pipe is installed. It is a continuation of the riser and leads to the roof. You cannot combine the exhaust pipe with the ventilation system of the house, and it is also strictly forbidden to combine it with the chimney.

Sewage outlets installed on metal roofs are usually made of plastic and have a deflector that allows air to be removed more efficiently. There are sewer outlets with a built-in electric fan. The installation of these elements is carried out in the same way as ventilation outlets.

The sewer outlet must not be installed close to windows or balconies.

Output for antennas and electrical cables

If it is necessary to install an antenna in places where wires pass through the roof, it is necessary to ensure tightness, for which special outlets are used.

Pass-through elements are universal and can be used for both metal tiles and other coatings. They are made of elastic material, so they retain their shape and provide tightness under both mechanical and thermal influences. The antenna or cable output retains its properties at temperatures from -55 to +135 °C.

The outlet for the antenna or electrical cable has a soft base that takes the shape of the metal tile profile and ensures a tight connection

There is a large selection of sizes of pass-through elements, so they can be selected for cables of any diameter. The flange of such outlets is made of soft material; it can take the form of metal tiles, corrugated sheets or other covering.

Table: diameter of passage elements depending on their markings

Features of metal tiles as a roofing covering

Metal tiles are one of the most popular and affordable roofing materials. The full width of the standard sheet is 118 mm, the usable width is 110 mm, and the length can vary from 0.5 to 8 meters. For the manufacture of metal tiles, steel with a thickness of 0.4–0.5 mm is used, and the thicker the sheet, the longer its service life and the higher the cost.

The service life of a metal tile roof is more than 60 years, it is non-flammable, durable, reliable and beautiful. Thanks to the wide variety of colors, this material can be used in any design projects. Metal tiles do not require a large roof slope, only 14 degrees is enough, so it is used on single-pitched, gable and other types of roofs.

The metal tile sheet is treated with several layers of protective coating, which ensure durability and a presentable appearance of the material.

For the manufacture of metal tiles, galvanized or galvanized aluminum steel with a polymer coating is used; copper sheets are less commonly used. This is a lightweight covering, a square meter of which weighs between 3.8–4.8 kg, so it does not require a massive rafter system and sheathing, which saves money.

To more reliably protect the sheets, they are covered from below with a layer of varnish 7–10 microns thick, and on top with a layer of polymer 20–200 microns thick, which can be used as:

  1. Polyester. This is the most common and cheapest polymer, which can be glossy or matte, tolerates temperature changes well, but is afraid of mechanical damage.
  2. Pural. It has significantly higher strength than polyester, so it is not afraid of damage from snow or ice, withstands chemical influences well and can be easily dyed if necessary.
  3. PVC based plastisol. The thickest and most durable coating that has an embossed surface, so the material treated with plastisol is more reminiscent of natural tiles.

Table: comparison of characteristics of various metal tile coatings

CoatingPolyesterMatte polyesterPlastisolPural
Surfacesmoothsmoothembossingsmooth
Coating thickness, microns25 35 200 50
Primer thickness, microns5–8 5–8 5–8 5–8
Thickness of protective varnish (back side), microns12–15 12–15 12–15 12–15
Maximum operating temperature, °C+120°+120°+60–80°+120°
Color fastness**** **** *** ****
Resistance to mechanical damage*** *** ***** ****
Corrosion resistance*** **** ***** *****
Weather resistance*** **** ** ****

Based on the combination of properties, the best coating for metal tiles is pural.

The main disadvantage of metal tiles is their noise during rain and low thermal insulation properties. Therefore, a roof made of this material must be heat and sound insulated.

Video: what kind of metal tiles do you need

Lightning protection is a mandatory element for a metal roof. Lightning rods are connected through bends to grounding conductors using a welded or bolted connection. The presence of lightning protection allows you to reliably protect the house and all its residents from damage by discharges during a thunderstorm. If this is not done, then a lightning strike that hits the roof can create burns in it, as a result of which the roof structure can catch fire.

Lightning rods can be mesh, cable and rod types. Their choice depends on the height of the building, the presence of tall trees and buildings nearby, but the main factor is the thunderstorm intensity of the area.

The most common type of lightning protection is a lightning rod in the form of a rod, which is connected to a grounding conductor through current conductors.

Most often, a metal rod is mounted as a lightning rod, which is attached to the highest point of the roof; a conventional metallized cable is used for the current conductor. For a metal roof, you can simply attach two wires to each slope and ground them. For a one-story house, the ends of the wires are dug into the ground to a depth of 1.8–2 meters. This protection option is only suitable if there is a layer of non-combustible materials between the roofing metal sheets and wooden elements.

Special catchers can be installed on a metal roof, the thickness of which should be 4 times the thickness of the metal tile. For every 10 m2 of roof, it is recommended to install one catcher measuring 80x80 cm. However, it should be taken into account that such a design spoils the appearance of the roof.

One of the biggest disadvantages of metal tiles is its low sound insulation. During heavy rain, noise will be heard in the attic and even on the first floor of the house. To make living in such a house comfortable and safe, it is necessary to properly soundproof a metal roof.

The main causes of noise:

  • improper installation of the sheathing, when boards of different thicknesses were used, which is why it was not possible to achieve a tight fit of the metal tile sheets;
  • insufficient number of fastening elements, which is why it was not possible to achieve the required rigidity of the metal tile. For 1 m2 of metal tiles you need to screw in 8 screws;
  • small roof angle - the smaller it is, the greater the noise.

To ensure the maximum level of sound insulation of a metal tile roof, the following measures must be taken:


To ensure sound insulation, you can use any materials with a sound absorption coefficient greater than 0.4. For example, for mineral wool it is 0.7–0.95.

Ridge for metal tiles

The ridge strip is located at the very top of the roof and protects the junction of the slopes from the penetration of water and foreign objects

To ensure maximum tightness, before installing the ridge strip, seals are installed at the junction of the slopes. They can be self-expanding, profile and universal. The ridge strip can be straight, semicircular or mortise.

It is best to purchase metal tiles and additional elements from one manufacturer. Installation of the ridge involves the use of the following elements:

  • ridge strip;
  • lightning rod holder;
  • ventilation tape;
  • sealant;
  • fastening elements.

Installation of a ridge for metal tiles

To perform the above work you will need:

  • fasteners with rubber washers;
  • safety rope and ladder to securely secure to the roof;
  • mounting belt;
  • screwdriver;
  • ridge strip.

It will be inconvenient to carry out these works alone, so you must invite an assistant. Installation of the ridge strip is carried out in the following sequence:

  1. Check the connecting line of the slopes for evenness. An error of no more than 2 cm per meter of length is allowed, otherwise it will not be possible to install the skate properly.
  2. Regardless of the width of the ridge strip, seals are installed at the place where it adjoins the roofing to protect the under-roof space from moisture.

    Ridge strips are installed with an overlap of about 5–10 cm

How to attach a ridge to a metal tile

When fixing the ridge strip to the metal tiles, you must use self-tapping screws with a rubber head. They are installed on the crest of the wave. Self-tapping screws cannot be screwed tightly and installed very often or, conversely, rarely. If fasteners are installed frequently, the ridge strip will begin to bend in a wave. If they are placed sparsely, the skate will not fit tightly and flapping. It is necessary to choose the optimal middle at which the ridge strip will sit tightly and evenly. This is done experimentally, checking after some time the evenness and reliability of fastening the additional element to the roof surface.

Video: attaching a ridge to a metal tile

Despite the fact that the cost of metal tiles is quite affordable, the price of the additional elements used will be significant. Experts do not recommend saving on them, since only the correct use of high-quality additions will make it possible to create a durable and beautiful roof that will reliably protect your home for many years.

In order for a roof made of a modern metal profile to have a neat and finished look, it is necessary to purchase components for metal tiles in advance. These are all kinds of corners, skates and other elements. The components not only make the covering a single whole and perform a decorative function, but also as a result prevent moisture, debris and dust from getting between the profile sheets, forming strong metal roofing units. This means they prevent the destruction of the entire roof over time. Read about the types of additional elements and their purpose on the roof in the material below.

Horse

If you are interested in metal roofing elements, then it is worth knowing that the very first of them is the ridge strip. This element is designed to join two roof slopes at an angle and in the same plane. That is, the ridge forms a logical completion of the roof at its very top.

Modern profile manufacturers offer ridge strips in the following shapes:

  • Radius ridge (semicircular). In most cases it is used on metal tile roofing. Can have a radius from 70 to 125 mm.
  • Trapezoidal skate. It is universal and can be used on any roof.
  • Figured skate. It also harmonizes perfectly with any other roofing material.

Important: for a figured and trapezoidal ridge, the offset of one wing can vary between 150-300 mm depending on the roof configuration and the slope angle of the slopes. Moreover, regardless of the shape of the skate, its length is always 2 m.

However, the ridge is not the only main element of the peak part of the roof. To completely complete the ridge assembly, you need to purchase the following components:

  • T-shaped and Y-shaped adapter. The first one is necessary for connecting the ridge strips on a hip roof, and the T-shaped one is intended for perpendicular connection of the hip roof strips.
  • Cap for ridge strip. This element applies only to the semicircular ridge. In this case, the plug can have a flat, conical or tent-shaped appearance. Such mesh plugs prevent birds, as well as debris or dirt, from entering the existing space under the roof.
  • Sealant-backing for metal tiles. Provides a tighter fit of the metal profile to the roof and prevents it from rattling in the wind. In addition, it performs a waterproofing function.

Endova

Such an element of metal tiles is necessary if the roof has a broken configuration. Valley planks are laid in the inner (negative) corners of the roof. Such a fragment of the roof is designed to absorb the flow of precipitation from two adjacent roof slopes and drain it freely into the drainage system. The valley looks like a plank curved at an angle inwards. There are the following types of valleys:

  • Inner (bottom). Designed for laying directly on the sheathing before installing the profile sheet. That is, it needs to be placed under the metal tiles. After installation of the roof it will not be visible. At the same time, it is important not to forget that when fixing the lower valley, a substrate for metal tiles should be used.
  • Outer (upper) valley. It is installed on top of an already installed roof and performs a decorative function. It has the same configuration as the internal additional element for metal roofing.
  • Figured valley. Acts as a top bar, but at the same time has an attractive appearance. Precipitation flows along it to a lesser extent than along the lower fragment.

Important: like the ridge, the valley strip has a standard length of 2 m.

End strip

It is often also called a wind bar. Such a fragment is attached to the gable part of the roof at the ends. As a rule, the wind strip has the form of a profile sheet bent along the length. The main function of the end strip is to protect the roofing material from possible disruption under gusts of wind. In addition, the wind strip protects the under-roof space from birds entering it and at the same time performs a decorative function. The length of the overhangs of such a plank can vary from 10 to 25 cm. At the same time, the length of the plank itself remains unchanged - 2 meters.

Tip: to visually complete the roof space, you can buy either a smooth wind strip or a more attractive embossed one.

Kapelnik

This fragment, together with the cornice strip, forms a complete cornice assembly. The drip line is mounted along the gable board of the rafter system/sheathing in order to prevent drops of water from entering the tree when rainwater drains into the drainage system. The standard dimensions of the drip are 40-50x100-110 mm with a length of 2 meters.

Cornice strip

This fragment for a metal tile roof is also indispensable in the overall roof structure. In its form, it is a kind of ebb with a bend on it. This strip additionally protects the eaves boards from excess moisture and is mounted on a drip film. As a rule, the cornice strip has the following parameters for the cornice wing - 70x100 mm or 100x150 mm. The length of the product is also 2 meters.

Junction strips

Such roofing components allow you to combine the roofing covering and elements protruding on the roof, such as chimneys, protruding turrets, etc., into a single structure. The abutment strip prevents water from getting between the metal tiles and protruding roof fragments. In addition, such an element performs a decorative function and forms a roof space that is uniform in color and shape.

Snow guards

It is worth knowing that the components for metal tiles do not end with the above. Such a fragment as a snow retainer is no less important. Its main function is to delay the sudden sliding of layers of snow along the tiles to the eaves during its seasonal icing over time. Since the crust of snow can turn into a slightly icy crust under the sun, its sudden descent from the roof with some melting can cause damage to both the profile itself and the drainage system. That is, roughly speaking, if a block of ice slides off the roof, it will not benefit the roof.

According to the form of execution, such elements for metal tiles can be:

  • Pointed. They can be placed on the roof in a checkerboard pattern over the entire surface of the roof.
  • Lattice. Simple lattice parts, snow guards, are mounted at the bottom of the slope.
  • Tubular. They are placed in one line in the lower third of the roof slope.

Advice: you shouldn’t skimp on additional elements for metal roofing. Coating components that are not technically completed will eventually lead to the destruction of the entire coating. And these are more significant costs than purchasing components for the roof.

Laying metal tiles is not a complicated process at all and you can easily do it yourself by following the installation instructions. Manufacturers of metal tiles have provided every step of installation work in their instructions, everything is simple and accessible. If you follow all the rules, you can avoid the bad consequences of poor installation.

  • Be attentive to hydro- and vapor insulation, do not neglect the protective coatings of wooden structures, and do not skimp on insulation (mineral wool with a density of 30 kg/cubic meter or more behaves best).
  • Don’t forget about installing a drainage system, snow guards, roof ladders and roof railings. These seemingly optional systems will help protect yourself during roof operation and increase its service life.

During the installation of metal tiles, you will need the following additional elements: eaves strip, lower valley, apron around the chimney outlet, end strip, upper valley, abutment strips, ridge strips, external corners, fencing strips.

Contact us, we will prepare all these additional elements for your metal roofing individually. We will supply you with all the necessary fasteners, including those painted to match the color of your roof. Fastening elements can also be covered with plastic decorative caps.

Our employees will calculate and offer all sealing and sealing materials at competitive prices. You can also purchase touch-up spray cans in the color you require.

Metal roofing is the most common covering option not only for residential buildings, but also for commercial and government buildings. Due to the optimal ratio of performance indicators to cost, this type of roofing coating currently confidently occupies a leading position among all types of roofing materials.

High-quality installation of coatings is impossible without the use of additional elements; they perform several tasks: they seal complex junctions of slopes, protect the roof from sudden gusts of wind, prevent water from entering the under-roof space and improve the appearance of the roof.

Practical advice. You should not save on purchasing additional elements and try to replace factory elements with homemade ones. In terms of quality and reliability, factory products are always superior to homemade ones.

Various manufacturers slightly change the appearance and linear dimensions of additional elements, but the function and method of installation remain unchanged in all cases.

The color scheme of additional elements must be selected depending on the appearance of the tiles; they must be as inconspicuous as possible and fulfill their main technical tasks, and not serve only as additional decorative details. Elements are selected taking into account the size and complexity of the rafter system.

Type of rafter systemList of additional elements

The simplest design from an architectural and technical point of view. Only the cornice strip can be used as additional elements, and then only when a drainage system is installed. The end one is almost never installed.

The structure is somewhat more complicated than a single-pitch one; during installation, it is imperative to install cornice, end and ridge strips. It is recommended to install snow protection to prevent breakdowns of the drainage system.

This roof has junctions between slopes (valleys). Accordingly, special elements must be used to protect them. Sealing of valleys is done with the lower strip, and decorative decoration is done with the help of the upper valley strip.

Technical parameters of additional elements

This is a very important issue and should be given top priority. The fact is that all valley elements operate in much more difficult conditions than the metal tiles themselves. They are exposed to maximum physical stress, and most of the precipitation flows down them.

Sharp gusts of wind can tear off the roofing carpet. Accordingly, the requirements for the quality of metal and anti-corrosion coatings are stricter. But unfortunately, some enterprises are trying to increase their profits by manufacturing additional elements from low-quality materials. Some consumers are interested in the quality of metal tiles, demand certificates of conformity, find out the names of manufacturers, but almost none of the developers consider it necessary to check the materials used to make additional elements.

If you look closely at roofs with metal tiles built 6-8 years ago, you will notice rusty additional elements on the still quite normal tiles. Only the ridge elements catch the eye, but this is not the main problem. Ridge elements do not cause large leaks; they can be replaced without major problems.

Very difficult situations arise in the case of premature corrosion of the bottom valley strip. Most of the total flow of rainwater flows through it; even relatively small through holes cause significant leaks.

It is impossible to assess the condition of the internal valley strip by inspecting the roof; it is covered by the external one. This means that only leaks in the attic can indicate poor condition of the valley seal. If the roof is insulated, then these leaks can be noticed when the rafter system has lost its stability and requires repair. The cost of such repairs often exceeds the roof installation estimate.

Prices for metal tiles

Metal tiles

General characteristics of additional elements

They are made of galvanized steel with a thickness of 0.4–0.7 mm, the thickness of the zinc layer is at least 20 microns. The coating should be uniform without gaps or sags. The thicker the metal and the larger the zinc layer, the better the element. Length 1–2 m, width of shelves 10–30 cm, parameters are selected taking into account the specific purpose.

The external surfaces of most additional elements are additionally coated with polymer dyes. They reliably protect surfaces from corrosion processes and improve the design characteristics of the roof.

List of additional elements for metal roofing

We will provide a complete list of elements, which and when to use depends on the type of roof and its size.

The second name is drip. It looks like a corner and is installed at the bottom of the slope along the cornice. Performs two functions: it collects condensate formed in the under-roof space and decorates the appearance of the building facade. It is fixed with nails or self-tapping screws made of stainless alloys, the distance between the hardware is 25–30 cm, the holes are made in a checkerboard pattern. Quite often you can see incorrect installation technology; in this position, the cornice strip works only as a decorative element, and water is not drained.

How to install the cornice strip correctly?


Unfortunately, on the Internet you can find recommendations to install a cornice strip on top of a windbreak. This is absolutely impossible to do. The edges of the strip will rise above the plane of the membrane, water will go into the gaps between the elements, and not be directed to the drip. Even the option we recommend has a problem - at the junction of the membrane with the eaves strip, the latter rises and a groove is formed. The water stagnates in it, and there is a risk of leaks.

It is necessary to install the eaves strip only when the roof is warm and mineral wool was used as insulation. Only this insulation is afraid of moisture and wind; only it is covered with a vapor-permeable membrane. At the same time, this membrane protects the mineral wool from the wind and reduces heat loss.

If polystyrene foam or other polymer materials were used as insulation, they do not allow moisture to pass through and are not afraid of wind. Accordingly, they do not require wind protection and do not need a cornice strip. The same situation applies to the construction of ordinary cold roofs.

Prices for mineral wool

Mineral wool

You can hear the names wind and pediment; it is mounted on the pediment side of the roof slopes. The main purpose is to prevent the metal roof from being undermined by strong gusts of wind and to protect the windproof membrane from mechanical damage. Naturally, gable trim also improves the appearance of buildings. The end strip is attached to the sheathing after installing the metal tiles, one side of the bend is screwed to the pre-installed wind board, and the other to the metal tiles.

End strip for metal tiles 70*90*2000 brown

Important. The surface of the metal tile has large protrusions; improper fixation of the strip significantly worsens the appearance of the building. What mistake do non-professional builders make? They do not pay attention to where hardware is installed. They need to be tightened only at the points of contact of the strip with the protrusions of the metal tile; the screws should be pulled out very carefully and only by hand. If these conditions are not met, the surface of the metal under the screw will bend and the plank will look unsightly.

Ridge strip

Covers the ridge and provides effective natural ventilation of the under-roof space. May have a round or rectangular shape. Due to the fact that the metal tile profile has large protrusions, large gaps form between the ridge strip and the roof covering. Not only insects, but also birds can fly through them, and they create big problems for residents. To prevent such a negative phenomenon, all ridge strips have foam seals; the elements are inserted into special technological places before installation. Foam rubber perfectly allows air to pass through, has almost no effect on the ventilation process and at the same time serves as a reliable barrier for insects and birds. The ends of the ridge strips are closed with special plugs.

Important. Never buy plastic plugs. They are often made from recycled materials, which are very unstable to harsh ultraviolet rays; low-quality plastic quickly loses its original properties. At first it becomes covered with microcracks, and then completely collapses. The service life of even high-quality modified plastics is much shorter than that of metal tiles.

This rule applies not only to caps for ridge strips, but also to all other elements. The plugs have a plank cross-section configuration; special latches are provided for fixation.

When installing the ridge strip, screws must also be screwed into the crest of the waves of the metal tile to prevent the formation of deformations. The planks are connected to each other using locks or simply covered with an overlap of at least 10 cm.

Bottom valley strip

The valley is one of the most critical and complex elements of the rafter system; it is here that leaks most often occur. The installation of roofing in valleys requires increased attention and strict implementation of all recommendations. The bulk of storm flows go through the valleys; the most snow accumulates in these places. In addition, in valleys the joints constantly shift slightly due to linear vibrations of the architectural structures of the rafter system and cyclic mechanical forces. Conclusion - sealing valleys should be the most reliable and stable.

The bottom bar is used to drain water from the joints of the slopes; the width of the element is at least 30 cm on each side. The plank is fixed to a special sheathing nailed along the junction angle of the slopes. Make sure that the entire area of ​​the shelves rests against the sheathing and does not sag. The sheathing should be as even as possible and correspond to the dimensions of the plank.

The element is fixed with self-tapping screws after installing the windproof layer and before installing the metal tiles. To increase the reliability of the roof, it is recommended to cover the continuous sheathing under the plank with a layer of waterproofing; it is better to use rolled materials. Installation of the plank is carried out from the bottom up, with an overlap of ten centimeters. If you wish, you can use various sealants in the overlaps, but they do not have any noticeable effect on the final sealing.

It is recommended to place foam rubber seals between the protrusions of the metal tiles and the valley strip; this prevents insects from getting under the roof.

Upper valley strip

Only a decorative element that covers uneven cuts of metal roofing sheets and is installed at the final stage of roofing work. The color of the surface is selected to match the color of the coating and is fixed using self-tapping screws.

Important. When attaching the top bar, you need to pay attention so that the screws do not damage the bottom bar. Choose their appropriate length, fix only on the relief ridges of the tiles.

Junction strips

They are used to seal the junctions of square chimneys; depending on the position, they can be internal or external.

  1. Internal junction strips. Installed under the roof on a waterproofing material (apron). Water from the apron is discharged to the drip and to the drain.
  2. External ones serve to drain water and decorate the junction area. Mounted in pre-prepared grooves with sealant.

Scheme of installation of strips of junctions to the pipe

The junction points are a complex roof assembly; work on installing the junction strips should be carried out in this sequence.

Step 1. Make a continuous sheathing under the apron and attach a waterproofing layer to it. You can take cheap roofing felt or expensive modern non-woven materials coated with modified bitumen. Glue the waterproofing around the perimeter of the pipe with mastic.

Step 2. Mark the lines where the metal strips join the pipe, and use a grinder with a diamond blade to prepare the grooves.

Step 3. Insert special folded strips onto the sealant into the groove and screw them to the pipe.

External strips are installed on top of metal tiles. The fixation algorithm is the same, only the apron is no longer mounted.

Snow guards

Prices for snow guards

Snow guard

Special barriers that prevent the simultaneous convergence of large masses of snow protect the drainage system from mechanical damage. Another function of snow guards is to make the sidewalks around the house safe for people. Depending on the engineering features, there can be three types.

Sheet corner

The simplest elements on the roof are installed in a checkerboard pattern. Advantages: low price and ease of installation. Disadvantages: low physical strength. Sheet corner snow retainers are fixed with self-tapping screws to the ridges of metal tiles. The thickness of the coating metal does not exceed 0.5–.06 mm; this cannot ensure reliable fastening. With great effort, snow retainers bend the tiles at the attachment points. If the load exceeds the permissible norms, elements can be torn out of the metal tiles, and the roof requires immediate repair. Recommended for use on roofs with slopes of no more than 30°.

Tubular

In all respects they meet consumer requirements and consist of load-bearing brackets and two rows of pipes. They have high performance characteristics and effectively protect not only the drainage system, but also passers-by. Disadvantage: installation requires preliminary preparation, which somewhat complicates the installation of the roofing. The fact is that the supporting brackets of tubular snow retainers are attached only to the sheathing boards. This must be kept in mind during its construction; two additional rows of sheathing boards must be provided to secure the elements.

The sheathing slats should be installed using a pre-tensioned rope; it is advisable to mark the locations of the sheathing for the brackets on the sheets during installation of the roof. If the roof dimensions exceed 5.5 m, then two rows of tubular snow retainers must be installed.

Lattice

A distinctive feature is that the snow is retained not by pipes, but by metal gratings. Advantage: they can hold large masses of snow and are used on multi-story buildings. The installation algorithm is the same as for tubular ones.

Pass-through elements

Prices for pass-through elements

Pass-through elements

Most houses have modern round chimneys; in addition to them, pipelines for the room ventilation system go to the roof. It is considered a prerequisite for comfortable living. Why?

According to SanPiN requirements, all rooms must be ventilated; the air exchange rate is set depending on their specific purpose. Previously, the effectiveness of natural ventilation was ensured by the presence of cracks in windows and doors; backward technologies did not allow the production of high-quality sealed products.

Currently, the use of sealed metal-plastic windows and doors completely eliminates the possibility of natural ventilation of interior spaces; it is necessary to install forced systems, air exhaust is done on the roof. In addition, local ventilation equipment is installed above the stoves in kitchens; it must also be able to remove contaminated air.

Important. For each type of metal tile profile, special penetrations must be selected, taking into account the wave height and pipe diameter.

Since penetrations are necessary for all houses, they can also be considered mandatory additional elements.

Pass-through element "Polyvent" for metal tiles




Video - How to choose a roof passage element

Such additional elements are produced by numerous companies; there is no fundamental technical difference between their products; they all reliably protect pipe outlets from leaks. Some penetrations have a soldered seal, while on others you need to glue it yourself. To increase the force of attraction of penetrations to metal sheets, special clips are inserted into the holes for the bolts. These are small plates made of thick-walled sheet steel with internal threads bent in the shape of a U. Clips make it possible to tighten bolts with great force; soft wiring elements bend along the profile of the metal tile and ensure 100% tightness.

Before starting installation, you need to carefully outline the outline of the passage through the metal tiles and cut a hole; the dimensions should be taken from the internal contour, and not from the external one.



To increase the tightness, it is recommended to additionally seal the contact points with any sealant before installing the penetration. It will work in conditions protected from the sun; resistance to hard ultraviolet radiation does not affect the duration of operation.





Each penetration is recorded taking into account the manufacturers' recommendations. When installed correctly, the penetrations effectively seal the joints; no periodic routine maintenance is required. It must be remembered that the fewer individual components the penetration has, the more reliable it is. The fact is that each element needs to be fixed, and each extra fastening point creates additional risks of leaks. This is a general rule for all structures, not just penetrations.

Additional elements for roofing made of metal tiles are mandatory components of the roof covering. They serve to give the junctions the necessary tightness and prevent atmospheric moisture, dust, all kinds of debris, insects, etc. from entering under the roof. Components (additional) parts are used to decorate the ridge, cornices, edges of gables, valleys, internal corners, and pipe passages. For complex roofs you may need a large number of accessories, but for simple ones - only a few items. For example, for a small gable roof, a ridge, gable and eaves strips are sufficient.

Let's look at the types of additional parts for metal tiles, their functions and installation methods.

Extensions (components) are galvanized strips that are installed at roof joints and transitions. The length of the products is usually 2 m, the thickness of the steel sheet is 0.4-0.7 mm. The width may vary, depending on the dimensions of the mounting shelves used.

Extensions can have a polymer coating in the color of the metal tile, which slightly increases their cost, but increases their decorative effect.

As a rule, when designing joints that are “in plain sight”, for example, ridges or upper ends, products with a polymer layer are used. They fit perfectly into the overall appearance of the roof, matching the color of the tiles. But decorative value does not matter when covering joints located under sheets of metal tiles.

For example, for lower valleys it is more practical to use ordinary galvanized strips without a colored coating. This will save money and at the same time achieve the necessary tightness, but not overpay for decorative elements, which will one way or another be hidden under the sheets of tiles.

The following types of additional elements are used for metal tiles:

  1. cornice strip;
  2. end (wind) strip;
  3. skate;
  4. valley (upper and lower);
  5. junction strips;
  6. snow retainers.

Let's take a closer look at each of them.

Element #1. Cornice strip

Cornice strip is a steel corner designed to decorate the lower part of the roof along the cornice. Serves to protect the frontal (eaves) board from moisture and to drain water that has entered the under-roof space into the gutter. Another function is to give the cornice line a finished look.

Installation of the strip is carried out before the installation of metal tiles, but after attaching the drainage system. The mounting shelf is fixed to the sheathing on top of the gutter holders. Fastening elements are galvanized self-tapping screws, screwed in every 300 mm.

To decorate the entire length of the cornice, as a rule, several cornice strips are used. They are connected to each other by inserting one strip into another with an overlap of 50-100 mm.

How to fix the eaves strip and bring it into the gutter, watch the video:

Element #2. End strip

The end (pediment) plank also has the form of a corner with mounting shelves. It is installed along the overhangs on the gables to protect the ends of the sheathing and the under-roof space from water, litter, insects and birds, and wind exposure.

The end strips are fixed at the final stage of roofing work, on top of the metal tiles. Installation is carried out along the overhangs of the gables from the bottom up, while overlapping the end edges of the roofing sheets. The planks are secured to the end board with self-tapping screws in increments of 0.5-0.6 m. The overlap along the length is 100 mm.

It is necessary that the end strip is in contact with the upper ridges of the metal tile, overlapping them. This blocks the access of moisture under the sheets of tiles, and also eliminates metal rattling during gusts of wind. To ensure a tight fit, it is possible to bend the edges of the tiles upward.

The classic method of attaching end strips is shown in a short video:

Element #3. Horse

The ridge strip covers the joint between the sheets of metal tiles formed along the ridge line connecting the slopes. Serves to protect against moisture, debris, insects and small birds getting under the roof. It is also part of the ventilation system, starting air movement in the ventilation gap under the tile sheets. Due to this, the roof elements are ventilated.

Ridge strips can be straight or round. Straight ones have a triangular or trapezoidal cross-section, and round ones have a semicircular cross-section. Round planks require the installation of plugs - flat semicircular or conical.


When installing a ridge strip, gaps are formed between its mounting flanges and the ridges of the metal tile. Manufacturers of metal tiles recommend covering them by filling them with a sealant (universal, profile with holes or self-expanding). However, this solution worsens the ventilation capabilities of the ridge, partially blocking the exit of air from the under-roof space. The problem can be solved by installing additional pitched or ridge point aerators.

The sealant is glued (as a rule, most of them are equipped with a self-adhesive surface) to the ridge strip or sheets of metal tiles. Then the bar is mounted, fixing it with self-tapping screws through the wave into the upper ridge. Fastening can be done through the lathing (this option is the most reliable) or only to metal tiles.

Extension of a straight ridge is carried out by overlapping by 100 mm. The round ridge strips are joined along stamping lines.

Principle of installation of ridge strips:

Element #4. Valley planks

The endow is a kind of gutter-tray formed in the inner corners of the roof, along the line of connection of the slopes. During the operation of the roof, it is subject to a huge load associated with accumulations of snow masses and storm flows. Therefore, to seal the internal corners of the roof, two valley strips are used - lower and upper.


The lower valley plank is a corner with wide shelves bent at the angle where the slopes meet. Its installation is carried out before installing the tile sheets.

Mount the plank on a continuous sheathing of 150x25 mm boards, packed on both sides of the joint of the internal corner to a width of 300 mm. First, waterproofing is laid along the sheathing, then the lower valley strip is secured by screwing in self-tapping screws in increments of 300 mm. To join the planks, they overlap by 100 mm.

If the junction of the slopes forms an almost flat angle, it is more difficult to seal it. In this case, it is advisable to use an additional layer of waterproofing.

For sealing purposes, a porous sealant is also laid between the lower valley strip and the tile sheets.

After installing the metal tile sheets, the joint of the internal corner is covered with another plank - the upper valley. It serves not only to drain water from the inner corner of the roof, but also gives the joints a decorative appearance. Therefore, the upper valley strip, as a rule, has a polymer coating that matches the color of the metal tile used.

The upper valley is placed at the joint of the inner corner and secured with self-tapping screws so that they do not pierce the middle of the lower valley plank. If this happens, the sealing of the joint will be broken, and accordingly, the roof will leak at the point of the breakdown. The gaps between the top strip and the metal tile profile are filled with a porous sealant.

The sequence of installation of the upper and lower valley strips and the nuances of their fastenings are shown in the video:

Element #5. Junction strips

They are used at the junctions of the roof with other surfaces, for example, with a chimney, wall, ventilation shaft, parapet.

The junction strips, depending on their location relative to the roofing sheets, can be upper or lower.

The bottom strip has the shape of a corner with bent longitudinal edges, which allow you to securely fix the part in a brick or concrete wall. The edges of the top bar are rolled.

Both options for junction strips are used when joining metal tiles to a chimney (bypass). To completely seal the joint, internal and external “aprons” are formed using these strips. The bypass arrangement is performed as follows:

  • Apply a layer of waterproofing 50 mm (minimum) to the walls of the pipe, the sections are fixed to the pipe with adhesive tape.
  • Installation of the internal “apron” begins from the bottom of the pipe. The lower junction strip is applied to the pipe wall, and the line of its upper edge is marked.
  • A groove about 15 mm deep is cut along the intended line so that it turns out to be slightly beveled upward (to create a barrier from moisture). Act carefully so as not to catch the seams in the brickwork; cutting grooves in the seams is strictly prohibited!
  • The bent edges of the internal junction strips are inserted into the groove and the connection is sealed with a heat-resistant sealant.
  • A “tie” is placed under the inner apron from below - a kind of trough made of a steel sheet with curved edges (flanging). It is led either to the valley or to the cornice. This detail will allow water trapped between the flashing and shingles to flow down the slope.
  • The planks are fixed to the sheathing and pipe wall with self-tapping screws.
  • In the same way, the junction strips are mounted first to the side walls of the pipe, and then to its upper part.
  • Metal tile sheets are mounted on top of the inner “apron” of the contour.
  • The upper joint strips are secured in the same order as the lower strips. And they are mounted in the same way, with the exception of placing the upper edges into grooves. The outer apron is, to a greater extent, a decorative element that masks the cuts of the tile sheets.

More details on the diagram:


The connection to the wall is done in the same way:

  • Place the waterproofing on the wall 50 mm upward.
  • Place a top strip on the wall and mark its top edge. A groove is cut along the line.
  • The upper edge of the junction strip is inserted into the groove, and the groove is sealed with sealant.
  • The bottom shelf of the plank is secured to the sheathing and wall with self-tapping screws.
  • The gaps between the plane of the strip and the profile of the metal tile are filled with a sealant - universal or self-expanding.

You can learn how to install abutment strips from the video:

Item #6. Snow guards

Snow guards are barrier products that serve to prevent snow layers and ice from falling off slopes. They retain snow masses, which can become dangerous for people and animals, and also lead to damage to property (cars, for example).

The following types of snow retainers are used for metal tiles:

  • tubular;
  • lattice;
  • corner

They consist of brackets fixed to the roof, through the holes of which 2 rows of pipes are passed. This is the most common type of snow guard.

Lattice products also consist of brackets, between which there are not just pipes, but lattice sections made of pipes or angles.

Corner snow barriers are rigid barriers in the form of corners made of bent steel sheets. They are used for roofs with a small slope angle – up to 30°.

When installing tubular systems, proceed as follows:

  • Determine the position of the snow retainers on the roof. This is done first, at the stage of installing the sheathing, since reinforced sheathing is required under the brackets.
  • The brackets are fixed in the deflection of the tile waves and secured with long screws to the sheathing. The distance between the brackets is 0.5-1 m.
  • Pipes are installed in the holes of the brackets, the ends of which are closed with plastic plugs. To set the required length, the pipes are connected to each other with bolts.
  • If the length of the slope is more than 5.5 m, a second row of snow stops is installed, at a distance of 2.5-3.5 m from the first.

The installation of lattice systems is carried out in a similar way, only lattice sections are inserted between the brackets instead of pipes.

To install corner snow guards:

  • A lining corner is mounted on the metal tile, fastened to every second crest of the wave, which serves for a more durable fit of the snow stop.
  • The corner barrier is installed on top of the backing corner and fixed to the metal tiles and sheathing with long self-tapping screws. The fastening is carried out through the wave, into every second ridge.
  • If necessary, install a second row of snow guards.

We invite you to watch a video on installing snow guards:

It remains to add that, despite the high cost of most components for metal tiles, it is not worth saving on them. The use of high-quality additions ensures a decent appearance and durability of the roof, which allows less frequent repairs during operation and simplifies maintenance.