Modeling from cold porcelain. Cold porcelain flowers: step-by-step master class. Modeling from cold porcelain: material, tools, rules

Cold porcelain is one of the inexpensive, accessible and easy-to-use materials for sculpting various products. This material is absolutely harmless, so even children can work with it. In addition, to create a product from cold porcelain or polymer clay, it is not necessary to have artistic modeling skills.

Flowers made from cold porcelain are especially beautiful, which craftswomen use to create floral arrangements, paintings, jewelry and other handmade items.

Flowers made of cold porcelain and polymer clay of different colors

Flowers made from cold porcelain and polymer clay are most often part of floral arrangements or decorations, which are so popular today not only among young fashionistas, but also stylish women too. To make flowers from cold porcelain with your own hands, you should follow the chosen master class.

Cold porcelain is sold already painted in different colors, in which case you need to buy a ready-made set of mass for modeling. You can also color the material yourself; this can be done both at the preparatory stage, even before the manufacture of individual elements, and at the end of the work, by painting ready-made flowers from handmade cold porcelain.

Materials for creating handmade cold porcelain flowers

If you are ready to make your own cold porcelain for modeling, you will need the following materials:

• corn starch;
• PVA glue;
• Johnson's Baby oil for children;
• vinegar or lemon juice;
• rich hand cream.

You will need 240 grams of starch and glue, the remaining components are taken in the amount of 2 tablespoons or 50 grams.

1. Combine all ingredients in a plastic bowl and microwave for 30 seconds.
2. Take out a bowl and mix its contents well to obtain a homogeneous mass. Place in the microwave again for half a minute, stir again. Repeat these steps again.
3. The last time, you should end up with such a thick mass that it will be difficult to knead.
4. In this state, transfer the mixture to a cutting board well greased with rich hand cream. Start kneading the mass, perform these steps until the material becomes soft and elastic.

Creating flowers from cold porcelain does not require heating the finished products in the oven. They dry on their own in the open air.

Master class on sculpting crocus flowers from cold porcelain

To sculpt flowers from cold porcelain you will need the following materials and tools:

• plastic spoons;
• cold porcelain of several colors - yellow or orange, purple;
• drop-shaped cookie pan;
• cutting board;
• wire;
• rolling pin;
• green electrical tape;
• decorative plastic grass;
• basket for flower arrangement.

To create flowers from cold porcelain, follow this step-by-step master class:

1. Take polymer clay of a color that suits you; in our case, for this craft we will make purple crocuses.
2. Knead the mixture in your hands and then roll it out like dough.
3. Using a mold, cut out petals from a thin layer of dough. If you don’t have a special baking dish, you can make it yourself. To do this, you need to cut a section from a tin can and fold it, forming a drop.
4. The cut petals should have a concave shape. To do this, place them in a plastic spoon. Make 12 petals for each flower. This composition consists of 5 flowers, which means you should have 60 blanks in the form of petals.
5. Make five pieces of wire, approximately 25 cm in length. These will be the stems of the flowers. Wrap the wire with green electrical tape.
6. Then take yellow or orange colored porcelain. Roll out into a thin layer and cut into small triangles. Make small cuts at the bases of the triangles. Roll these elements into tubes - you have got pestles.
7. Glue 6 petals to the stem in two rows, place the pistil inside, coat it with glue and dip it in corn grits to get the pollen effect.
8. Cut out long thin leaves from green polymer clay and fix them at the bottom of each stem. For one crocus you will need 2 leaves.
9. Place the flowers in a basket and tie it with a beautiful satin ribbon.

DIY rose flowers from cold porcelain

To make flowers from cold porcelain according to this master class - beautiful roses of rich red color, you will need:

• wire;
• cold porcelain red and green;
• paper;
• PVA glue;
• silicone molds “leaves” or real rose petals;
• green floral ribbon;
• scissors;
• balls of different diameters in a skewer;
• wavy knife;
• brush.

Want to learn how to make rose-shaped cold porcelain flowers?

Follow this master class on sculpting flowers from cold porcelain:

1. Soak the paper well with PVA glue and attach it to the wire in the form of a ball.
2. Now start creating flowers - forming their petals.
3. Pinch off a small piece of red cold porcelain from the total mass and roll it out in your hands. While doing this work, periodically apply a rich cream to your hands to prevent the porcelain from sticking to your hands and tools.
4. When you have your rose petal ready, apply glue to it and glue it to the paper ball at the end of the wire. Repeat these steps, creating petal by petal for our rose. The number of such elements depends on the desired results. If you want to get a lush rose, make 11-15 petals; if you need a medium-sized flower, 7 elements will be enough.
5. When the flower is ready, move on to creating the leaves. To do this, take cold green porcelain and form leaves using special molds. Using real leaves – live or artificial – is also a good option. This technique allows you to accurately convey all the veins of the leaf.
6. To make leaves, form small cakes of green cold porcelain with your hands, giving it the shape of a leaf, place a real leaf on top to seal the traces of the veins and remove it. Using glue, glue the finished leaves to the stem.
7. At least 24 hours must pass from the moment the leaves attach to the stems and buds. This is exactly how long it will take for the material to dry completely.

The process of creating such flowers from cold porcelain is presented in step-by-step photos:

Making flowers-clips from cold porcelain

Often the goal of making flowers from cold porcelain is to create beautiful hair clips with your own hands.

To make such original accessories you will need:

• blanks in the form of hairpins;
• porcelain of a suitable color - pink, white, red, orange, yellow;
• green cold porcelain;
• rich hand cream;
• cutting board;

We make flowers from cold porcelain like this:

1. Take porcelain in a color that suits your needs. To do this, you need to decide on the color of the finished hair jewelry.
2. Grease the cutting board and hands with rich cream.
3. Pinch off a small piece of porcelain in a matching color. We will make jewelry for yellow hair, you can use any other color.
4. Roll into a thin sausage, approximately 7 cm long.
5. Next, take a knife and cut the “sausage” into 7 pieces – 1 cm long.
6. Using your hands, roll each piece of cold porcelain into a pea shape.
7. Take a hairpin, thread a pea through one of its sides so that it is centered at the top, this will be the base of our rose.
8. We have 6 yellow peas left. From each of them, make a thin long layer with your hands.
9. Take the first layer and wrap it around a pea on a stiletto heel, this will be the first petal of the rose. Perform these actions with all elements.
10. When the rose is formed, start creating leaves. To do this, pinch off a little material from cold green porcelain and roll into thin small sticks, press them with your fingers so that they become flat and place them at the base of the rose, making a bud.

Such beautiful hairpins in the shape of flowers made of cold porcelain are shown in the photo below:

Set for creating flowers from cold porcelain in the form of a painting

This arrangement of flowers made of cold porcelain in the form of a painting will be a good gift for loved ones.

To do this job you will need:

• rolling pin;
• cutting board;
• scissors;
• picture frame;
• blue cardboard for background;
• foil;
• toothpicks;
• fat cream;
• a set for creating flowers from cold porcelain or modeling paste and a set of paints.

Ceramic floristry: poppies flowers made of cold porcelain (with video)

To make a painting of flowers from cold porcelain, follow this master class:

1. Roll out a column of red material 1 cm in diameter. Next, for each petal, cut a piece of a column - approximately 2 cm long. Try to make equal sections so that the petals also become approximately the same.
2. Next, roll the workpiece into a ball and make a round element out of it on the outside and give it a triangle shape at the bottom. Now roll out this preparation lightly with a rolling pin on a cutting board, because poppies have very thin petals, because of this they can even be slightly wrinkled, which gives these flowering plants even more charm.
3. To give the petals that natural bruise, use foil. Remember it well, straighten it, put our petal inside, cover it with the rest of the foil on top and lightly go over it again with a rolling pin.
4. Now start creating the center of the flower. In a blooming poppy, the center is different in color from the stems and leaves; it is slightly lighter. To do this, paint cold porcelain using green paint and add just a little white dye. At the same time, you can paint the material for the leaves and stems - use green paint and a little red.
5. From light green porcelain, form the center of the poppy - make an oblong cylindrical shape.
6. Bend the tip of the wire into a loop, grease it with glue and put on the poppy box.
7. At the top of the box, use scissors in a circle to make convex stripes so that they converge towards the center of this element.
8. Paint the porcelain black and roll it out to form a rectangle. From this blank, make a fringe along the edge and wrap it around the poppy box; these will be the stamens of the plant.
9. Then, using glue around the box, fix the petals in the following way: first, place two petals opposite each other, then the second row - the flower elements again place opposite each other so that the petals take a checkerboard position.
10. Now take dark green porcelain, roll it out thin and wrap it around the wire to form a stem. Use scissors to make poppy leaves and press out the veins with a toothpick, giving them a natural look. Leave these plant elements to dry completely on a flat surface. Glue to the stem in any order.
11. Make unopened poppy buds. To do this, take a wire and bend the end into a loop. Roll a ball out of red porcelain and thread it through a loop. Next, roll out dark green porcelain into a thin layer, cut out 2 elements the size of a teaspoon. Place the blanks in a spoon, giving them convexities, then use glue to glue them to the red ball on the wire opposite each other with the convexities outward, forming an unblown poppy. Make the leaves and stem as described above.
12. To implement this idea of ​​ceramic floristry in the form of poppy flowers from cold porcelain, you need to make 3 blossoming poppies and 2 buds.
13. When all the elements of the composition are ready, all that remains is to assemble it. To do this, take a blank for the picture - a sheet of blue cardboard of the appropriate size. To fix the flowers, you can use PVA glue, but for greater reliability it is better to use “Superglue” or “Moment”. Arrange the flowers in the picture at your discretion, leave the composition to dry for a day.

The result of the master class on cold porcelain poppy flowers is presented in this photo:

Tips from crafters: poppies go very well with wheat spikelets, which can also be made from cold porcelain, but you can also use real spikelets.

Interesting ideas for creating flowers from cold porcelain are presented in the master classes in the video below:

Despite the fact that the network is replete with a wide variety of recipes for preparing cold porcelain, it is possible to cook the miracle mixture correctly only after a certain amount of pain. At the same time, the “borscht rule” is observed - there is one recipe, but the mass is completely different for everyone. What the secret is is unknown, but the solution is simple - you need to try and not give up. Sooner or later you will find “your” combination of ingredients. I will share my small discoveries - I hope they will be useful.

Cold porcelain recipe

Well, now let's get down to business.

Components:

• corn starch – 2 cups of 200 ml;
• PVA glue with plasticizer – 2 cups of 200 ml;
• glycerin – 1 tablespoon;
• Vaseline – 1 tablespoon;
• lemon juice – 1 tablespoon.

As you can see, the components are fairly standard. Lately I’ve been adding - it acts as a thickener, and also makes the texture of homemade polymer clay smooth and silky (we’re talking about the raw mass).
Now about each component in more detail.

Starch . It is preferable to use corn starch. They say that it is not easy to find, especially in small towns. However, it is being produced. And the other day I read that it is from corn starch that the delicious Turkish Delight is made. So, we have to look. This curiosity can be found in a small store or in a supermarket chain. Typically, starch is on shelves next to its distant “relative” - potato starch. The latter can be included in a cold porcelain recipe if cornstarch cannot be found.

Memo:

Cornstarch makes cold porcelain smoother, more uniform, slightly opaque, and slightly creamier; thickens at a temperature of 62 - 80 degrees.

Potato starch is slightly grainy, makes the mass translucent, the texture of such HF is not smooth, but rather sugary, the color, oddly enough, is whiter than that of corn starch; thickens at a temperature of 58 - 65 degrees, that is, it cooks faster!

For sculpting dark details (stems, for example), cold cornstarch porcelain is quite suitable, as is the case for bright flowers. It is not very suitable for white and pastel colors - the flowers turn out to be plastic and opaque. But from potato starch, the petals look like wax or sugar, in a word - for light details that require transparency - suitable. But the stems from “potato” HF may appear unnaturally “transparent.” Thus, it is useful to have CP from both starches in stock. Below I show the process of cooking homemade clay for sculpting flowers from corn, its thickening temperature is high.

I wrote in a separate article how to accurately control the weight’s temperature gain. There is also information about how the type of glue and starch affects the color of clay, and how to make HF snow-white.

Glue . To prepare cold porcelain, use PVA glue with a plasticizer. The presence of a plasticizer is the key to the success of the mass. Don’t take regular office glue - it will turn out to be a mess, no options:-(I use “PVA plasticized dispersion” glue, which can be easily found in any hardware store in Ukraine. A 1 kg jar costs about 4 USD, and I have enough of it for two batches of cold porcelain. They also praise that there are 4 multi-colored mosaic puzzles painted on the jar.

I made my first mixture from a very suspicious glue, bought from an equally suspicious guy, who somehow reacted inadequately to the question “Is there a plasticizer here?” The mass turned out like shortbread dough - yellowish-orange and crumbly. It did not dry, cracked and was generally incompatible with modeling. After this, I mistakenly became convinced that it is impossible to make cold porcelain at home without attracting otherworldly forces and using magic. And then I tried this miracle dispersion, and, in Matroskin’s words, hurray! it worked! About how high-quality the mass is obtained from this glue is written in the article about with photographic evidence. By the way, flowers from this HF turn out to be quite waterproof. I conducted a special test, about the results of which there is a note.

Petrolatum. Also sold in pharmacies - in jars or tubes. Read about why it is needed in bulk, and what will happen if you don’t add it.

Lemon juice. It plays the role of a preservative in the mixture, preventing it from molding and giving it a pleasant smell. I extract juice from fresh lemon, making sure that no seeds get into the mixture (which they do). Instead of juice, you can use citric acid from a bag and even vinegar.

Making cold porcelain

1. Prepare the necessary ingredients and a medium-sized saucepan. It is better if it is coated with Teflon, because it will be very difficult to wash the dishes later. But it's worth it.

2. Pour glue into a 200 ml cup. Pour it into the prepared saucepan. Carefully scrape out the remaining glue from the walls with a spoon so that they do not interfere with the dosage. We measure out another identical portion. Pour into a saucepan.

3. Pour glycerin into a tablespoon and place it in a saucepan with glue. The dishes should not be aluminum! Read more about this in.

4. We also send Vaseline there, the volume of which is approximately equal to a tablespoon. If it’s a little more, it’s not scary.

5. Squeeze lemon juice into a spoon and place in a saucepan.

6. Now mix all the liquid ingredients. For greater effect, you can slightly heat the saucepan in a water bath so that the Vaseline melts. But I usually do without it.

7. Pour starch into a 200 ml cup (I have a whole set of them) (no heap! flush with the edges!). It flies in all directions - don't worry.

8. Pour the measured starch a little at a time into a saucepan with glue and other nasty things. The further procedure is absolutely identical to kneading the dough for pies. While stirring, pour out all the starch in parts. Let's measure out another cup. Pour in and continue stirring.

9. At this stage you will notice that there are a lot of lumps. Don't worry, they will miraculously disappear, but still try to stir thoroughly.

10. The mixture should have the consistency of thick dough - it will slowly flow down the spoon. If you took exactly two identical cups of glue and starch without a slide, everything will work out correctly.

11. Place the saucepan on the lowest heat. We put an oven mitt on one hand and hold the pan tightly by the handle. With the other hand, continuously (!) stir the mixture with a spoon.

12. Gradually it begins to stick to the spoon, and turning the latter becomes more difficult. Your hands will get tired oh-oh-oh. But there will be more!

13. The mass clumps together, the walls of the pan squeak, and we try to prevent the mixture from burning. You can remove the saucepan from the heat for 5 – 15 seconds, without ceasing to stir.

14. Now is the most crucial moment - you need to guess when it’s time to put the mixture out of the pan.

15. The photo shows the consistency of the mass ready for kneading. It sticks to the spoon in one big lump.

16. We spread the mixture from the pan onto the table.

Important! The surface must be perfectly clean! No dust, hairs, cat or dog fur. I glue cling film to the table, securing it around the edges with tape. In this case, I use disposable plastic gloves, which, as a rule, are easy to find in the supermarket in the candy section. Medical ones are also suitable, but it is important that they do not contain talc.

17. We begin to knead the mass like real dough. Only very hot. This is a labor-intensive process - you need to knead with all your might, kneading the resulting lumps. You will have to maintain the temperature (it cools down quickly), but I don’t encourage using towels to avoid burning your hands, because then there will be a lot of lint left on the mass. It's really not very hot - our women's hands couldn't stand it!

18. The mass begins to become more homogeneous.

19. The lumps gradually disappear.

20. And it turns out like this bun

21. Pay attention to the lumps - they are clearly visible in the photo. Don't worry - they will disappear in a day or two. Miracles, but it is true. When cooking HF in the microwave, there are no lumps at all.

22. We spread the “bun” with Johnson’s Baby oil (very, very desirable!) and carefully wrap it in several layers of film. Then we put the lump in a plastic container. I use an ice cream bucket for this purpose.

Important!

• The mass must not be put in the refrigerator! It should be stored at room temperature. In the cold, all PVA glues irreversibly lose their properties, breaking down into “curd” and the aqueous phase. The same thing will happen to the glue inside raw HF if you put it in the cold. Also remember that you cannot order PVA by mail during the cold season! Marriage will come to you! True, there are frost-resistant brands of glue, but they also have unsatisfactory reviews.

• Johnson's Baby oil prevents the film from sticking to the HF and also protects it from drying out. I used to think that it played the role of an antiseptic, preventing the mass from growing mold, but this is not so.

• You can start sculpting no earlier than 1 - 1.5 days after making cold porcelain. Don't rush to try the mass, otherwise you will be disappointed. It should be well saturated and become plastic.

• After 1.5 days, the film on the “bun” needs to be changed, once again lubricating the Johnson’s Baby mass.

The mixture turned out great, except that it dries quickly. but this is not bad, and it also teaches you to keep things in order by keeping the dough in film.
Dash, let's make it strong, shall we? I just sleep and see))
http://images.yandex.ua/yandsearch?source=wiz&uinfo=ww-1349-wh-604-fw-1124-fh-448-pd-1&tld=ua&p=7&text=%D1%81%D1%82%D1 %80%D0%BE%D0%BD%D0%B3%D0%B8%D0%BB%D0%BE%D0%B4%D0%BE%D0%BD&noreask=1&pos=237&rpt=simage&lr=21609&img_url=http%3A %2F%2Fimg0.liveinternet.ru%2Fimages%2Fattach%2Fc%2F5%2F85%2F170%2F85170146_1109989_1IMG_2734.JPG

Hello, Tanya! I still don’t understand from the photo, is this your stucco clematis or a real one?
Strongylodon, honestly, this is the first time I’ve seen it! What an interesting thing! Need to try it :-)
Samovar khf from Modena has a very different feel, but this is a matter of habit... Sometimes the flatbreads need to be dried before rolling in a stack or bulk. But Fleur clay is very similar to our HF, also soft. I haven’t tried peony online clay, but I’ve read reviews from craftswomen - they write that it’s unusually soft compared to Japanese clay. It turns out that both Peony-Online and Fler brew their own clays according to a recipe similar to ours :-)
In order for the HF to remain white when drying, you need to add titanium dioxide (titanium white) during cooking, but I only tried it with gouache - the results were really white flowers, but saturated colors (green for the stem, for example) did not work out - it was light-colored. green. It seems to me that if you plan to sculpt something white, then you can separately weld HF with titanium dioxide, and separately - transparent for everything else. It seems that titanium dioxide is also sold in powder. But I don’t know how much to put it in.
I don’t work with acrylic paints, I really don’t like this dry effect. Try it with oil - a completely different sensation. My oil paints are cheap, I think I bought a set of 12 for 30 hryvnia.
I used to sculpt white elements specifically from Modena, but I still mixed white oil paints into it (titanium and zinc give an unattractive transparency and yellowness). And the other day I made a white lily (with white oil) from my HF and the texture of the petal is exactly like that of a living one - just as smooth. I'll show you a photo soon.
By the way, Modena is more susceptible to cracks than HF - maybe the pack has simply dried out already? yours is fresh! And the HF cakes are flexible and flexible.

My clematis, and 3 triple xf - 2 modenas plus a samovar, and I stuck it into a bush of living clematis, I don’t have 3 flowers yet, but there are some with flowers next to it, ro3)) I made the flower life-size, according to the drawing, as you can see the middle there is not the same as that of living clematis, but a little fantasy, however, maybe there are such things)) You can look at botanical prints with beautiful flowers here, a large blog of pictures.
http://madamkartinki.blogspot.com/search/label/%D0%B1%D0%BE%D1%82%D0%B0%D0%BD%D0%B8%D1%87%D0%B5%D1%81 %D0%BA%D0%B8%D0%B5%20%D0%B8%D0%BB%D0%BB%D1%8E%D1%81%D1%82%D1%80%D0%B0%D1%86 %D0%B8%D0%B8
I photographed the flower in the bright sun, and the details are not very visible, but in general, I’m happy with the result, in terms of the clay and its “docility” and pleasant surprises - even the fine texture, which dries becomes clearer, I even went overboard with the veins and folds, the flower turned out to be a little faded))
I’ll definitely try it with oil paints, I just don’t have it on hand, I live in a city, I’ll have to go specially with paints.. later.
Now I’d like to figure out the tools-molds-cutters... and try to make a strong one, there are such 3ags, if you figure out how best to twist them, please tell me too))
I haven’t tried making stems yet.. I don’t have floral tape, but won’t the clay stick to the wire? Maybe just glue it with thin paper, and then clay?
In short, I don’t know how to do anything yet, but I want everything, to the joy of having clay and needing to spoil it urgently))

• Well, wonderful clematis, very natural. Especially in the middle there are these purple-brown things - we still can’t get the same color. And it is often found in nature!
  You can do without floral tape. I use it only for thick stems, for example, hyacinth. And I roll the thin ones straight along the wire. the main thing is to roll with the soft parts of your palms (where the wrist meets the palm and the base of the thumb is also there - this is shown in the gerbera tutorial). It turns out smooth, better than on the table!
  I'll think about it with a strong one, but it seems that an ordinary knitting needle and a bead will be enough (you can replace it with a knitting needle and a toothpick with a bead). I’m going to make fuchsia, it’s somewhat similar to strong.
  And thank you so much for the link to that botanical blog! just what you need!

I get a dark color by adding a little bit of black paint to the resulting desired shade - burgundy or lilac, the shade remains, but the color darkens, turning into purple, brown-violet or dark cherry...
Oh, another very beautiful flower from the Vanilla liana, half-orchid, half-magnolia)) from the company of ec3otropics.

Yesterday I accidentally came across your site, and I’m incredibly happy about it. I have been working with clay for a long time, and I was convinced at the end that there is nothing better than Modena. I cooked HF more than once, according to different recipes - the last one is similar to yours, but apparently I did something wrong - I didn’t get what I wanted. I wanted to bring it as close as possible to Modena in terms of characteristics and features, it’s somehow a little expensive (But all my tests turned out to be unsuccessful, and I decided - no more HF, only Modena!!!
Yesterday I noticed this topic on your website, but didn’t open it - I thought I’d had enough of experimenting, but when today I came across the topic of loading CP into water, the result pleasantly surprised me))) Immediately after that I found your recipe and it’s ready HF cook again!!!
I really hope that everything will work out for me and I will be able to replace my beloved Modena with samovar HF!!!
Dashenka, I want to thank you for your wonderful site, for your work - you give so much of your soul and time))) I wish you good luck and prosperity with all my heart!!!

With uv. Victoria

• Victoria, thank you for your warm feedback, I am very pleased!
  In fact, there is really nothing better than Modena; it is ideal for white flowers. The Russian clay Fleur seemed similar to it to me.
  Apparently, glue is very important in samovar HF, although I almost immediately found “mine” and haven’t tried it with others. So the recipe is nonsense, it’s my classic one. But plasticized polyvinyl acetate dispersion is exactly what you need. I guarantee that this is the key to success.
  My porcelain is very similar to Thai clay, but it still doesn’t reach Modena. Not such a waxy and dry texture or something... More smooth... In my opinion, this is noticeable only in jasmine, apple tree, etc. tender little ones. At the same time, I make white peonies, roses, lilies, and daisies from a samovar. I especially like lilies! The result is such a beautiful texture, like that of a living flower (although a lot also depends on the mold).
  So, IMHO, it’s unlikely that it will be possible to repeat Modena, but Thai (Modern, maybe? blue brand) is quite possible. This mass is especially convenient for stems and foliage, especially if there are a lot of them. Because rolling with purchased clay is generally for very wealthy craftsmen :-) But if you work in miniatures, then only Modena!
  Good luck with your cooking :-) there is also a microwave recipe, it is now at the top right in the “recent posts”.

  And further. The main disadvantage of samovar HF is its fragility in the cold. I don’t remember if Modena (the finished product) freezes, but Fleur doesn’t seem to be afraid of the cold and continues to bend. But my HF does not tolerate frost... But it can withstand many freeze-thaw cycles. So you need to be prepared for this :-(

Oh, Dashenka, so much information - thank you very much for your detailed answer. Today at home I was going through the materials and found the glue that I used to prepare HF for the last time. The composition is dispersion and PVA, True, there is no sign “polyvinacetate” (oh, what a complex word, I just wrote it)))) So I’m thinking, maybe it’s worth welding with this glue again ,How do you think? Just exactly according to your recipe, the only difference is I didn’t use Johnson’s Baby (I took baby cream) and instead of lemon juice I added citric acid. In general, in the end it didn’t work out - it all crumbled.

I just read an article about cooking in the microwave and I understood one, or maybe one of the reasons why my porcelain was fragile, I went too far with starch)))) The article is very interesting and useful, but for now I will still cook it the usual way - in a saucepan) Somehow these step-by-step seconds and mixing really scare me. While I want to learn how to do this, here I have porcelain in front of my eyes and more or less already have experience with gas, a microwave is still a long way off for me))))
Once again, Dashenka, many thanks and gratitude!!!

If it crumbles, it means:
- either the glue is not suitable (it contains little plasticizer);
- or there was too much starch (as you already noticed below).
You can cook a small portion for testing, put starch and glue 1:1, exactly level with the edges of the cup.
And if it still crumbles, it means the glue is to blame :(
Poly-Vinyl-Acetate is PVA :-) The glue is simply prepared from a concentrated dispersion, diluting it with water. And I was lucky enough to buy it in its pure form.
Well, you’ve probably already read the article about glue :-)
Everything will definitely work out! Good luck to you:-)

Hello!
I’m a beginner, I want to try it) my glue composition is: water, PVAD Df51/10s calcium carbonate dispersion, functional additives
Is this suitable for HF??)

Dina, whether the glue is suitable can be checked as follows.
Remove the transparent film from the lid, well, the dried layer of glue that remains on the jar. And try to break this film. If it breaks easily, like a film of ordinary school PVA glue, then HF cannot be made from this. And if the film stretches and is difficult to tear, then there is enough plasticizer in the glue, and the HF can turn out good.
If there is no film on the lid, then simply spread a layer of glue on some smooth surface, for example, on a plate. Let dry completely. And then remove this film and again test it for tearing. Good luck to you! Everything will work out! :-) HF doesn't always succeed the first time, but it makes it all the more interesting!

Hello! I finally found the same glue, and it wasn’t available anywhere except Epicenter, where you buy it. I cooked it right away, I was afraid to turn it over - I took the mass out and immediately started kneading, the mass began to stick, I greased my hands with Johnson's butter and continued kneading. I wrapped it in cling film and I think maybe I didn’t cook it enough - that’s why it stuck when kneading???

• Hello, Victoria! I'm glad you were able to find the glue.
  Properly brewed HF does not stick to clean, dry hands. You poke it with your finger - and there is only a depression in it, but the finger remains clean. If after letting the HF sit, it is still sticky, then you can do it in two ways:
  1. Gradually heat in the microwave to a temperature when the hands are very hot, but still tolerable. Stir. It is better to divide the mass into 2 parts. First, heat one piece. If you suddenly overcook it, do not heat the second one, but mix it with the first one.
  2. Cook another HF, but overcook it a little, but not to a rubbery state, but so that it does not stick at all. And then before modeling, mix undercooked and overcooked.
  In short, the secret is that overcooked and undercooked (sticky) CP when mixed give the optimal consistency.
  Good luck to you! :-)

Hello Dashenka! I think we can already make a small batch of cooked HF according to your recipe. I didn’t have to finish cooking it, it doesn’t stick to my hands, which made me happy right away, I immediately decided to experiment - I rolled out a piece of porcelain thinly and left it to dry. As soon as it’s dry, let’s break it and twist it, I even crumpled it up - not a single crack)))) I even tried to stretch my “plate” - to be honest, I was surprised))) it stretches like an elastic band and doesn’t break, of course, when I’ve already made fun of it too much and soooo stretched - torn!!! The only thing I didn’t try was the experiment with water. You need to make something that you won’t mind putting it in the water and observing))))
So far I’m happy with this stage, let’s see how it behaves in sculpting!!!
Thank you again for the wonderful article and invaluable experience!!!

• Cheers cheers! Victoria, I’m so glad that everything worked out for you! :-)
  Now try to take the finished product out into the cold. My HF (well, that is, flowers made from it) becomes fragile, but in the warmth it becomes plastic again. This is its main and only drawback. I’m thinking about what kind of anti-freeze additive I should put in there.

Tell me, if the dough still sticks to your hands after kneading, does that mean I didn’t cook it enough? I tried to cook it again, but it still sticks. The ball was rolled up, dried out and cracked. What's wrong?

Ceramic floristry came from the land of the rising sun, where more than five thousand years ago craftsmen created amazing flowers and figurines. Cold porcelain appeared in Argentina, today this material allows you to create with your own hands unique interior items, decorations. Visually it looks like porcelain, but hardens in air. Children will also be able to create souvenirs and accessories from such material. It is inexpensive, safe for health, plastic, and easy to work with. This is an excellent hobby that promotes the development of imagination and perseverance.

Cold porcelain recipe

Masters engaged in this type of work develop their own recipe over time. For beginners, an option that includes standard components is suitable.

You'll need:

• Take 200 gr. cornstarch or use potato starch.
• You will need 150 gr. PVA glue to connect the parts of the product.
• Some recipes include water, but too much of it will cause the finished product to crack and fall apart.
• Glycerin is necessary to give the mass plasticity.
• Be sure to make sure you have hand cream. When working, it is necessary so that the material does not stick to your hands.
• Sometimes craftsmen add citric acid to the composition, which helps increase the shelf life of the finished product.

Important! Corn starch makes products light and transparent, while potato starch will make your figures and compositions look heavier.

Mix everything in a container, except starch, and place on the stove over low heat. The mass should be stirred constantly so that it does not burn. After obtaining a homogeneous mixture, add starch. The mass is ready when it begins to lag behind the dishes. It is easier to cook the material in a water bath; this method allows you to obtain a more homogeneous mass.

Today, craftswomen also use a microwave to obtain a homogeneous material. To do this, the mixture is placed in the oven in a glass container and the timer is set for 30 seconds. After the specified time, the mass is removed from the microwave and mixed. The procedure is repeated until the material reaches the desired consistency.

We place the raw materials on a cloth soaked in water, and pour water into the pan to make it easier to clean. Hot material is kneaded in a towel. When it cools down, you can knead it in your hands so that the raw material does not stick; sprinkle your hands with starch. During this procedure, we add pigment to the mass to color the raw materials. After this, the porcelain is placed in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. The raw material must stand for a day before working with it.

There is a method that does not require cooking. The resulting material is not inferior in plasticity to cooked raw materials. To do this, take potato starch and grind it with Vaseline. There should be twice as much starch as Vaseline. While mixing, a pinch of soda is added to the mixture, glue is gradually poured in, and the mass is brought to the required thickness. Then continue kneading the mixture with your hands lubricated with cream.

Tools

You don't need to go to the store and buy a lot of expensive tools and equipment. Everything you need for work is often already at hand. You can use knitting needles and other metal objects found around the house as stacks. You will need a metal ball on a stem to roll out the material to a specific thickness. For such purposes, take a bead and secure it well on a toothpick. Special texture devices (molds) are replaced with ordinary leaves or petals of living plants.

List of tools, materials:

• Rolling pin for rolling out.
• Scissors.
• Round nose pliers are necessary when creating jewelry using fittings.
• Tweezers will help you deal with small parts.
• Pliers will help you straighten or bend thick wire.
• Stacks.
• Paints for coloring the material in the desired color. You can use different types, but professionals prefer oil paints. They do not contain water, they do not dry out quickly, and they are easy and convenient to work with.
• Decorative cosmetics.
• Gloves.
• A cutting board on which it is convenient to knead the mixture with your hands and roll out the material.
• Cling film for storing material.
• Wet wipes.
• The tape will help connect the parts to the frame. Double-sided adhesive tape is used to tighten the wires to obtain a neat stem for the plant.
• Wire for assembling products may need different diameters. The choice depends on the type of flower and its size.
• PVA glue perfectly connects raw parts or a wet part with an already dried component. But if you need to glue two dried parts together, use instant glue.
• Molds are imprints of a leaf or petal, they are necessary to make flowers look realistic.

Many tools are easy to find at home; if something is missing, then buying them today is not a problem.

How to determine that the material received is of low quality?

It is difficult for novice craftsmen to immediately determine how well the raw materials were kneaded and whether the resulting material is suitable for the job. Let's list some disadvantages:

• If the finished porcelain is hard with obvious inclusions of starch, then you have added a lot of this component to the mixture. To correct the flaw, you need to add glue to the mixture and knead it again.
• If the resulting figurine does not hold its shape, then liquid glue was used or the mixture was not cooked enough. Try to cook the mixture until the required thickness is obtained. If this cannot be done, then you need to buy another glue and start the work over again.
• After drying, the products crack, which indicates an excess of moisture in the mass.
• If the raw material sticks to your hands, and prolonged kneading fails to change anything, it means you forgot to add glycerin to the mixture.

The drying speed of the product depends on its thickness and ranges from 1-7 days. When drying, the figures must be turned over to avoid deformation of the products. To speed up the drying time of the product, use a hair dryer or place it in the oven at a low temperature. You can also use the microwave to speed up the drying process.

Cold Porcelain Staining

The material can be colored by kneading. For this, dry pigment, acrylic paints, gouache, etc. are used. Craftsmen paint the finished products. To do this, take a brush and apply paint to the surface of the porcelain, then hold it over steam. This is necessary for the dye to be absorbed. After painting, adjustments are made to the finished product with a thin brush. Water-soluble paints fade when they dry, but oil-based paints do not lose their brightness. To change the color, craftsmen use food coloring and chalk. Painting the surface of porcelain products begins after complete drying.

Jewelry and interior items are made from this material. You can decorate the nursery by creating fairy-tale characters from porcelain with your child. Frames and vases in the interior, decorated with stucco, look original. The decoration of the home will be flowers, animal figures, and interesting compositions. Using cold porcelain it is easy to make a pleasant surprise for friends and family.

Features of products made from cold porcelain

When working with such material, it is important to consider the following:

• After kneading, do not rush, the raw materials are left for a day.
• Immediately before sculpting, hands are lubricated with cream.
• Store the finished material in sealed packaging.

Porcelain products are beautiful, but it is better to store them away from moisture and direct sunlight. At temperatures below 10 °C, the structure of the material is destroyed. High temperatures lead to porcelain drying out and destruction of figurines. Protect products with varnish; this coating will increase their service life and help maintain the brightness of the colors.

Cold porcelain is a surprisingly plastic material from which craftsmen sculpt many interesting products. For decoration, use beads, threads, beads, shells, etc. To learn how to work with such material, you do not need specific knowledge or skills; even a child can cope with the work.

Sakura flower made of cold porcelain

Flowers bring joy to people. They are given as gifts for holidays and grown on windowsills and front gardens. But the cut flower fades, and indoor plants require care. Therefore, people looked for ways to replace natural flowers and created artificial plants from beads, fabric, paper, and ceramics. Today, original floral arrangements made from cold porcelain, which are easy to make yourself, are popular.

Let's create a sakura flower. To do this, prepare the mass and divide it into two components. One component remains white, and the second is painted a soft pink color. Make blanks for the petals. The white component is thicker than the pink one. They are joined together along the length, and then rectangles are cut from the resulting material.

After this, we proceed to sculpting the petals. The base will be pink, and the edges of the petal will be white. The finished petals are glued together with glue, a hole is made in the middle of the flower with a sharp object, where a wire stem is then placed. Under the buds we place a sepal with a green base and white edges. We fasten and place on the stem. Each branch is collected separately, and after drying, the composition is assembled.

To practice floristry, you need to be patient; developed finger motor skills will help in this matter; operations are performed carefully. These qualities will help you obtain realistic flowers, figurines and other products. The qualities listed above develop directly in the process of work, so the main component is the desire to create!

Cold porcelain appeared in Europe quite recently, although it has been known in Japan for more than five thousand years. Cold porcelain products have nothing in common with real porcelain. It is named so only due to the visual fragility and seemingly weightless translucency of the finished product, which is very reminiscent of real porcelain.

Each craftsman who makes products from cold porcelain with his own hands has his own recipe, not passed on to anyone, developed by himself after a long search. But a novice sculptor can try making cold porcelain with his own hands from generally accepted components, and then develop his own individual method that is most convenient for him.

To create material for modeling you need:

• 200 grams of corn starch;
• 150 grams of PVA glue (construction);
• 100 grams of water;
• A teaspoon of glycerin (at the pharmacy);
• A teaspoon of any hand cream.

For work, you can also take potato starch in the same amount. Only corn porcelain looks more transparent and weightless, and has a yellowish tint. It is an ideal material for sculpting delicate flower petals. Potato starch produces greyish, visually heavier objects. It is better suited for figurines, jewelry, and interior items.

Combine all ingredients except starch in a saucepan (it’s better to use an old one, the mass turns out too sticky), put on low heat, stirring constantly. When the contents of the saucepan become homogeneous, add starch without stopping stirring. The mass boils only in places with the highest temperature, along the burner contour. Therefore, without stirring, it will burn there, but in other places it will not be ready yet. You can remove it from the heat when the porcelain begins to clump together and pull away from the walls of the dish.

A more gentle cooking method for dishes and nerves is in a water bath. Without having time to stir, you can periodically remove the saucepan with the brew from the water and thoroughly mix its contents. The result of this method is a more homogeneous mass, without pellets and compactions.

Place the finished raw materials for modeling on a towel moistened with cold water, wrap it, and immediately pour water into the used pan and immerse all the tools used for cooking there. While the porcelain is hot, you need to knead it in a towel so as not to burn your hands. When the mass has cooled, you can get rid of the towel and continue kneading with your hands, periodically sprinkling them with starch. During this period, you need to do coloring, adding pigment while kneading.

Ready-to-use porcelain is soft, elastic, and does not stick to your hands. You can put it in the refrigerator for half an hour, after wrapping it in a plastic bag, and start washing the dishes. If the remaining mixture dries on the walls of the pan, it will be much more difficult to wash them off. It is better not to start sculpting right away; the porcelain should be allowed to sit for a day.

Cooking cold porcelain using a microwave

The microwave oven is now an indispensable attribute of more modern kitchens. Therefore, you can use it to prepare cold porcelain with your own hands. For these purposes, it is better to take glassware. The principle of preparing the mixture is no different from the previous one. It is also necessary to stir it, periodically setting a timer for thirty seconds. After removing the container with porcelain, mix it thoroughly and return it to the microwave for the next thirty seconds. The thickened mass must be placed on a surface convenient for kneading and brought to the required consistency with your hands.

Porcelain recipe that does not require heat treatment

From potato starch you can make a mass that does not require cooking and does not differ from boiled in its plastic qualities. To do this, you need to take a glass of starch and thoroughly grind it with Vaseline in a 2:1 ratio. While mixing, add a pinch of baking soda on the tip of a knife. Without stopping stirring, gradually pour in PVA construction adhesive, achieving the required thickness. When the mixture reaches the required concentration, you need to knead it with your hands. When kneading in any of the above methods, it is advisable to pre-lubricate your hands with any hand cream. The surface on which the porcelain is kneaded can also be greased with cream or sprinkled with dry starch.

What tools are needed for the job?

There is no need to run to a specialty store to purchase a beginner's cold porcelain sculptor's kit. Moreover, such a set, most likely, is not there. And the professional tools needed for work, assembled separately, may turn out to be too expensive. Therefore, it is better to start working with available tools that can successfully replace the stacks, balls, knives and scissors that are so necessary for work.

Metal rulers, knitting needles, toothpicks and nail files will handle the duties of stacks. Instead of a cast ball on a stem, which is necessary for rolling porcelain to the desired thickness, you can take an ordinary bead rigidly attached to a toothpick.

Texture molds, necessary when working with flowers and plants, can be replaced at certain times of the year with leaves and petals from fresh flowers and trees.

Signs of low-quality porcelain

The prepared raw material for cold porcelain is too hard, pieces of it are difficult to pinch off, and inclusions of pure starch are visible at the break site. This indicates an excess of starch in the composition. It is easy to correct this defect - re-knead the mixture with the addition of PVA glue. Once you feel that the mass has absorbed the glue and has become much more elastic, wrap it in cling film or plastic and put it in the refrigerator for a day.

The mass is not plastic; when rolled out thinly, it does not hold its shape; it sticks to everything. Most likely, the glue turned out to be too liquid, there was not enough plasticizer, or the raw material was undercooked. You can try to bring the mass to the desired concentration by cooking it on the stove or in the microwave. If the problem does not go away, you will have to purchase better glue and start working again.

If the product cracks after drying, then the reason for this most likely lies in the quality of the PVA glue. Construction adhesive is better suited for cold porcelain; office PVA is too liquid. It is better to choose a construction material with a plasticizer, which will improve the quality of raw materials and help achieve the desired result in the final product.

The mass sticks too much to your hands, the table and the film during kneading, and “refuses” to take on the required consistency. Most likely, they forgot to put glycerin or petroleum jelly in it during preparation. These components help remove excess moisture from the glue, which increases its plasticity and reduces its “sticky” properties. But it should be borne in mind that at first, even a perfectly prepared mass sticks a little to your hands, so you should look for the reason when the result is not visible after prolonged kneading.

Various figurines, figurines, flowers, paintings made from materials such as cold porcelain impress with their realism and fascinate with their beauty. Sometimes it may seem that mastering sculpting requires innate talent and skill, but this is absolutely not the case. Modeling from cold porcelain is a very simple activity and anyone can master it. This article will tell you step by step how to prepare cold porcelain at home, and will also present step-by-step master classes on sculpting flowers.

The material got its name due to the fact that the finished product made from it is absolutely similar to real porcelain, and it is called “cold” because there is no need for heat treatment to harden, since this material dries quite quickly naturally.

Today, any master can purchase modeling material from a specialized craft store, but making cold porcelain yourself is not difficult. For this you will need:

• corn starch - 1 glass of 200 grams;
• glycerin – 2 teaspoons;
• PVA glue – 3.5 cups;
• water – 100 grams.

Pour water, glycerin and PVA glue into a saucepan or bowl with a thick bottom and mix all components thoroughly. The container should be heated over low heat., stirring the contents regularly. Next, starch is gradually added, it is worth noting that during the introduction of starch, stirring should become more intense and faster in order to avoid the formation of lumps and allow the starch to combine with the other components evenly.

Cold porcelain should be boiled it won't resemble dough and does not form a solid lump, after which you need to remove the container from the stove and put the mass on a damp towel and wrap it. The cooked mass must be kneaded well for ten minutes, but there is no need to remove it from the towel, and when the cold porcelain has cooled, it should be divided into pieces.

In order for the product to look bright, it is necessary to color the material; food coloring, acrylic paints or pigments may be suitable for this. As soon as the kneaded porcelain has been divided into parts, you need to add a coloring element to it and knead again until the color distribution is uniform.

There is also technology for coloring finished products, for this you will need food coloring and cotton swabs. The finished, frozen elements of the product are painted in the required color and kept over hot water steam for a minute. To avoid getting burned, it is best to hold the product with tweezers.

Gallery: flowers made of cold porcelain (25 photos)

Cold porcelain flowers for beginners - how to sculpt with your own hands

Roses from cold porcelain - master class

This composition will consist of several red roses, which will be located on a wire stem and connected into a bouquet using a decorative ribbon. For the master class you will need:

When working with plastic, you should generously lubricate your hands with a nourishing, rich cream so that the material does not stick to your hands and interfere with your work. To start it is necessary to make blanks in the form of stems made of wire that will hold the roses. A small drop of cold porcelain is attached to the tip of the wire; this will be a bud.

To make petals you will need a stack, which looks like a device with a rounded tip on a skewer. You can purchase it at any specialty craft store or make it yourself; a large bead can serve as a round tip.

A small piece of red porcelain needs to be kneaded and given the desired shape, and the excess is cut off. Using a stack, a petal shape is given by smoothing. It is worth noting that, like the petals of natural flowers, their edges should be thinner than the middle and lower parts.

The finished petal is smeared with a small amount of PVA glue and attached to the bud, forming a rose flower.

This should be done several more times until you get a whole flower. Each time the size of the petal needs to be increased.

The last petals will be the largest. When the flower is ready, you need to place it in a jar or vase, bending the wire so that the flower faces down.

In order to make leaves, you can use ready-made molds, which are sold in specialized stores.

Green cold porcelain should be rolled out on a flat surface, which is greased with hand cream, into a very thin layer (the thickness should not exceed 1–1.5 millimeters) and squeeze out the leaves with a mold.

If you don’t have such a shape at hand, you can carefully squeeze out the leaf shape yourself with a knife or toothpick, but it’s worth remembering that in this case you need to sculpt very quickly. After the porcelain has taken the shape of a sheet, it needs to be given a natural relief. Next, the wire is wrapped with floral tape, and then the prepared leaves are attached to it using PVA glue. Excess glue must be removed with a napkin.

When all the flowers have been collected, they should be left to dry, and then made into a bouquet and secured with decorative ribbon.

Such bouquets made of cold porcelain can be use in home decor or present to family and friends as a souvenir, after placing them in a vase.

Sakura flowers – master class on cold porcelain sculpting

This master class is suitable for beginners working with this material. For the master class you will need:

First, you need to shape the white and pale pink cold porcelain into bars (the bars should be the same size). Next, you need to put them on top of each other and use a stationery knife to cut them into small rectangles.