Economy drainage pit Do-it-yourself cesspool without a bottom. Types of cesspools and their design

Sewage is one of the most important benefits of civilization. Without sewerage, washing, showering, taking a bath and going to the toilet are accompanied by difficulties and inconveniences. But connecting to a centralized sewer system is not always possible - it is not available for remote villages, summer cottages and cottage communities. The way out of the problem is to equip your own facilities for collecting, purifying and recycling wastewater. The simplest and cheapest solution is to build a cesspool without a bottom with your own hands.

How does a cesspool without a bottom work?

There are two types of cesspools:

sealed;
leaky, without bottom;

The first are a simple structure made of concrete, brick or plastic, completely waterproof. They collect liquid and solid waste coming through the sewer pipe. Regularly, on average 1-2 times a month, a sewer truck must pump them out of a sealed drain pit. The services of such specialists are expensive, which is why some owners are thinking about how to partially recycle sewage using soil treatment.

And the simplest option is unsealed cesspools. They are a shallow well made from bricks, old tires or concrete rings. They do not have a sealed bottom - either the soil itself or a filter bed made of sand, gravel or crushed stone is located there. Also, many holes are created in the walls of the cesspool for the purpose of drainage. Through them and the bottom, liquid sewage partially goes into the ground and undergoes natural soil purification. The rest remains in the well and is pumped out by a sewer truck 1-2 times a year.

You might be interested in information about what it looks like

Such a structure is suitable for solving the problem of waste in a country house visited during spring and summer, or for a village house where 1-2 people live. For a large family, without a bottom is not an effective and environmentally friendly solution - in this case, it is preferable to build several concrete wells.

Advantages and disadvantages of a cesspool without a bottom

Let's briefly look at the good and bad aspects of a leaky cesspool design. Its advantages include the following.

The price of the structure is extremely low compared to the cost of a full-fledged septic tank - both factory-made and home-made, built from rings or monolithic concrete.
Easy to create - a pit and a trench for the pipe are dug, the walls of the cesspool and a lid are installed, and the connection is made. Without any problems, all these activities can be completed independently.
Speed of construction - it is quite possible to equip a cesspool without a bottom made of concrete rings in a couple of days.
Lower costs compared to a sealed cesspool - you can call a sewer truck not every month, but only 1-2 times for the whole year.

Due to its simplicity and maximum cheapness, such a sewer structure has serious disadvantages.

Environmental problems - if this is placed near a source of drinking water, then over time the latter may become unusable - sewage seeping through the soil will poison it with E. coli and other microorganisms. It is possible to drink from such a well, but it is not safe.
Possibility of conflict with neighbors - those who live next to you are unlikely to like the existence of a potential source of pollution. But, as practice shows, this is a problem only for well-maintained cottage communities and gardening communities - in other places, most likely, neighbors have the same or even simpler facilities for collecting sewage.
Problems with SES. If the sanitary and epidemiological service comes to your site to inspect it, it may consider the presence of a cesspool with waste seeping into the soil a violation of standards, with corresponding consequences.
Short-lived operation - it should be understood that such a cesspool is unable to function for a long time - over time, the soil around it will silt and stop letting water through in the same volume. As a result, the structure will fill with wastewater faster, so it will have to be moved to a new location or replaced with a full-fledged septic tank. Or use the services of sewer cleaners more often.

Choosing a location for the cesspool

It was mentioned several times above that a cesspool without a bottom is not the best solution from an environmental and sanitary point of view. But a competent choice of location for its construction will minimize possible risks and avoid poisoning of reservoirs and wells.

It is worth saying that current sanitary and construction standards do not give a clear answer to the question of whether it is admissible or, conversely, inadmissible to build a cesspool without a bottom. Below are some excerpts from various documents.

So, if possible, a leaky cesspool should be created on soils with good water permeability and in places where the groundwater level is at least 1 meter below the bottom.

The list below gives the minimum distances between such a structure and various objects:

from the cesspool to the drinking well - at least 50 m;
to the reservoir - at least 30 m;
to trees and vegetable gardens - at least 5 m;
to the road or site boundary – from 2 to 4 m;
to residential buildings – 5 m.

Advice! Before starting construction, familiarize yourself with how the sewage collection structures of your closest neighbors are constructed. Also, if the matter occurs at the dacha, discuss this issue with the chairman of the partnership. This will avoid unnecessary conflicts and reduce the likelihood of inspectors from the sanitary service visiting your site.

Construction of a cesspool without a bottom from concrete rings

The most popular material for self-construction of bottomless cesspools, drainage wells and septic tanks are concrete rings. They have sufficient strength for such a structure, their installation does not take much time, and their low price makes these products accessible to any household. The process of making a cesspool without a bottom from concrete rings with your own hands is given below in the form of step-by-step instructions.

Important! Before you begin excavation work, determine how many concrete rings and what size you need. For convenience, the main characteristics of the most popular products are summarized in a table.

Table. Dimensions, weight and volume of concrete rings manufactured in accordance with GOST 8020-90.

Name	Inner diameter, m	External diameter, m	Height, m	Weight, kg	Internal volume, m3
KS10.3	1	1,16	0,29	≈200	≈0,3
KS10.6	1	1,16	0,59	≈400	≈0,62
KS10.9	1	1,16	0,89	≈600	≈0,94
KS15.6	1	1,68	0,59	≈660	≈1,3
KS15.9	1,5	1,68	0,89	≈1000	≈1,97
KS20.6	2	2,2	0,59	≈970	≈2,24
KS20.9	2	2,2	0,89	≈1480	≈3,38

Step 1. Start building a cesspool without a bottom by determining the location where it will be located. This is discussed in more detail in the previous section of the article.

Step 2. At the selected location, mark and determine the boundaries of the future pit. Its diameter is made 20-30 cm larger than the outer diameter of the concrete ring.

Step 3. Begin direct soil extraction. If the cesspool is supposed to be shallow and there is enough time, then you can do the excavation work manually. It is advisable to do this in pairs - one digs, and the other lifts the extracted soil upward. The work is greatly facilitated by using a bucket with a strong rope and a garden wheelbarrow (or walk-behind tractor).

Important! If, when digging a pit by hand, it is discovered that the soil is prone to crumbling, then for reasons of your own safety, work should be stopped immediately. Otherwise, there is a risk of suddenly being covered with earth. In such situations, you will have to bring in an excavator.

Step 4. Regularly measure the depth of the pit using a tape measure. For cesspools without a bottom, this depth does not exceed 3 m. Also remember that there must be a distance of at least 1 m between sewage drains and groundwater (preferably more).

Step 5. Delivery of concrete rings is usually carried out by the manufacturer, and they are brought on a truck with a crane. Check the availability of all ordered products and their quality.

Step 6. Using a crane, immerse the first concrete ring into the pit.

The ring is lowered into the pit

Important! To better fix the rings to each other, apply cement mortar to their ends before laying the new product.

Step 7 In the same way, place the second and subsequent rings on the first ring. At the same time, align them relative to each other.

Step 8 Complete the laying of concrete products by installing the top round slab in which a hole is cut for the hatch.

Step 9 In loam conditions, a large contact area will be required for effective drainage. If you live in an area where the soil does not absorb water well, drill a series of medium-sized drainage holes in the bottom of the sump pit. Their total area should reach 10% of the total area of the internal surface of the structure.

Important! Often, a cushion of crushed stone with a thickness of 30 to 50 cm is poured onto the bottom of such a cesspool. Its use allows you to at least slightly clean the sewage drains going into the ground. At the same time, the filler of such a pillow requires regular replacement or washing, which is not the most pleasant and simple job. Each homeowner must decide for himself what is more important to him - the ability not to pollute the surrounding land and groundwater too much or the absence of the need to go down into the cesspool and replace the crushed stone filtration bed. Instead of the latter, you can use regular sand.

Step 11 Fill the space between the walls of the pit and the concrete rings with earth or sand.

Step 10 Complete the arrangement of a cesspool without a bottom made of concrete rings by connecting a sewer pipe and installing a hatch.

Video - Cesspool

Construction of a cesspool without a bottom made of brick

Another, no less popular option for a cesspool is a structure made of brick. It should be understood that it will require more time and effort than a structure made of concrete rings. But if you have a lot of unused bricks left on your site after building a house, fence or barn, then it makes sense to put them to work and make a cesspool without a bottom entirely with your own hands, without involving third-party people and construction equipment. The step-by-step instructions with photographs below will help you in this matter.

Step 1. When building a brick cesspool, like any other sewerage structure, start with excavation work - choose a location and start digging a pit of the appropriate size.

Important! The presence of a simple lifting device will greatly facilitate the process of extracting soil from the pit.

Step 2. Check the depth and diameter of the pit using a tape measure.

Step 3. Get rid of the earth removed during the construction of the pit. At the same time, leave part of it for subsequent filling of the roof of the structure.

Step 4. At the bottom of the pit, build a flat ring of bricks, as in the image below. It will play the role of a kind of foundation under the walls of the cesspool.

Step 5. Proceed with laying the lower part of the brick cesspool walls. If you have not previously dealt with such material, then building this structure will be good practice for you, during which you will gain basic skills in working with bricks.

Important! Sand-lime bricks absorb water well and gradually deteriorate. If you want your cesspool to last longer, replace them with ceramic ones.

Step 6. Continue laying and rise higher and higher, to the edge of the pit. Fill the space between its walls and brick with sand - it absorbs water well and partially filters it before it enters the ground.

Step 7 Complete the laying of the walls of the brick cesspool, not reaching a little to the surface of the ground.

Step 8 Lead the sewer pipe from the house into the cesspool.

Step 9 Reinforce the sump pit using a metal angle installed as shown in the image below. Instead, it is allowed to use a wooden beam, but the latter will not last too long - over time, the material in an aggressive environment will begin to collapse and rot.

Step 10 Place the same flat brick ring on top as at the bottom of the cesspool.

Step 11 Cover the top of the cesspool with a concrete slab, either prepared in advance or poured on site. Do not forget about the hole for the hatch, through which sewage will be regularly pumped out.

A cesspool without a bottom is a quick and economical solution to the problem of sewage drainage. But, if possible, replace it over time with a full-fledged septic tank produced at a factory or.

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For the citizens, the problems of drainage and disposal of household waste are solved by municipal services, but adherents of free-living country life have to think through such pressing issues on their own. If the owner of an estate intended for the residence of a large family most often has to order the installation of a bulk septic tank or local treatment station on the site, then a summer resident can easily build a cesspool with his own hands from inexpensive or waste materials. It will cope with the important sanitary function perfectly, and will not require the allocation of too much money for arrangement.

The simplest and most cost-effective options

The historical predecessor of this sewer facility was a simple hole dug in the ground, the walls of which were coated with clay and reinforced with boards. Then they began to bury old barrels, tanks, and other used containers into the ground. Nowadays, such “reservoirs” for collecting and partially filtering wastewater are installed only if the daily amount does not exceed 1 cubic meter. m.

A simple cesspool for a toilet can satisfy the needs of summer residents who stay on the site a couple of days a week during the summer season. However, its device is not approved, and sometimes completely prohibited by sanitary and epidemiological services, often accompanied by the imposition of administrative penalties.

Elementary cesspool: from the simplest container lined with boards for a toilet to a tank made of concrete rings

Attention. The depth mark of the bottom should be at least 1 meter higher than the maximum (spring-autumn) groundwater level.

If the owner of a suburban area really doesn’t want to spend money on building a structure, and he has a certain amount of worn-out tires, this material can be put to good use. You just need to lay the tires in the dug pit, fastening them together with bolts. If the pit is located outside the house or toilet, a hole must be cut in the side of the tire placed on top to connect the sewer pipeline. Afterwards, the pit around the home-made treatment plant is filled with soil, and a concrete slab with a hole for the ventilation pipe and a hatch for pumping is laid on top.

The owner of a N-number of worn-out tires can use them to build an excellent reservoir for collecting waste

Common types of structures

According to characteristic design differences, cesspools are divided into absorption structures and sealed containers. The functions of collecting, accumulating and treating wastewater are also performed by septic tanks. They are more technically complex installations with forced stimulation of the movement of wastewater inside and with biological and chemical treatment methods.

Violation of sanitary and epidemiological standards for the location of a cesspool is unacceptable

Containers without bottom - absorbent

Direct descendants of the “people's” cesspool. Their characteristic feature is the absence of a bottom, due to which the liquid component of the wastewater, having undergone purification by coarse filtration through a layer of a mixture of sand, gravel, broken brick and other “ingredients”, passes into the ground. The absorption option is considered the most economical; moreover, the construction of a pit of this type can easily be carried out by a contractor who has absolutely no experience in the field of construction. Another saving: due to the partial infiltration of purified water into the ground, there is much less need to call sewer trucks.

Structural diagram of a cesspool without a bottom - wastewater is filtered through crushed stone

The absorbent type of pit is chosen if there is no need to drain a large amount of wastewater, if the country house does not have a jacuzzi, dishwashers and washing machines. The land will not be able to process and accept a large volume. In addition, the cleaning carried out cannot be classified as a 100% effective procedure, which means that wastewater from the absorption pit will still pollute the environment.

Sealed waste water tanks

Their name contains a direct hint indicating the main design feature. Essentially, these are closed containers made of water-tight concrete, brickwork, plastic, and gas silicate blocks that require constant emptying after filling. Sealed structures will ensure the complete absence of odors typical of wastewater, but will force the owners to regularly call a sewer truck to remove accumulations.

Important. A cinder block is not suitable for building a cesspool; it will collapse too quickly from contact with water.

The easiest way is to buy and bury a factory-made plastic container in the ground to collect wastewater, connect a sewer pipeline to it and periodically call the vacuum cleaners to empty it.

The simplest scheme for constructing a wastewater tank would be to install a store-bought plastic container. It does not need to be sealed, however, it is advisable to fill the bottom of the pit with a kind of cement screed and strengthen the walls with reinforcement. In principle, if the owners are not embarrassed by the unpresentable appearance, then there is no need to bury it in the ground. Another very compelling argument in favor: a plastic structure can be installed regardless of the close level of groundwater. There will be no harm to the environment anyway.

The tank should not be completely filled with sewage; there should be at least one meter between the manhole cover and the liquid level; if the level exceeds the limit, the container should be emptied

The simplest homemade septic tanks

These are more complex structures that not only perform deep cleaning, but also process wastewater into fertilizer valuable for gardeners. Most often, they are a system of two or three chambers, in the first of which only collection and rough mechanical purification occurs, and in subsequent chambers specific bacteria enter the battle, finally processing the polluting inclusions of wastewater.

A cesspool with an overflow purifies water so well that it can be successfully used for economic and technical purposes, for example, for watering or for cleaning the area. But in order to make a septic tank with an overflow, considerable effort will be required.

The operating principle of a three-chamber septic tank is based on multi-stage wastewater treatment: in the first tank, the collected wastewater is subjected to coarse filtration, in the following chambers finer purification is performed

If you don’t mind the effort, but there is no surplus of financial resources, you can again resort to worn-out car tires. In the sense of “bald”, but not worn-out tires. Moreover, the owner will save money not only through waste building materials. To install a septic tank made from tires, you do not need a powerful concrete foundation, just a compacted cushion of crushed stone with sand with a thickness of 30-40 cm and a ten-centimeter screed.

To increase the volume of the created reservoir, the sidewalls of the tires must be cut off.
A concrete pipe is installed vertically in a well made of tires; its diameter should be approximately two times smaller than the same size of tires. The upper cut of the concrete pipe is located 10 cm below the well made of tire rubber.
The bottom of the pipe is filled with concrete to form a monolithic concrete cylinder.

At the top you will need to make holes for infiltration and for installing pipes that provide overflow.

Design of a cesspool with overflow: the pipe entering the chamber must be located higher than the overflow pipe

The sewer pipe must be inserted into a concrete container located inside the tires.

Places where sewer pipes enter vertically installed concrete pipes must be sealed.

Let's consider the stages of installation of several design options.

Absorbing

Owners of small country estates who decide to make a basic sewer system with their own hands most often choose this option. The simplest design and the ability to not resort to the services of sewer trucks too often are attractive. The walls can be made of bricks or gas silicate blocks, but it is easier and faster to build them by placing concrete rings on top of each other.

It is much faster to build walls from gas silicate blocks than to lay them out of brick, and it is even faster to make a pit from concrete rings, but to install them you will need a crane

It is necessary to dig a shaft-type pit, the diameter of which will be approximately 80 cm larger than the diameter of the reinforced concrete ring. You will need 3 rings.
Along the perimeter, leaving the central part free, you need to make a concrete screed, it will serve as a supporting base for the rings.
It is necessary to drill holes in the lower ring every 10 cm so that purified water can penetrate beyond the cesspool. The diameter of the filtration holes is 5 cm.
Important. The depth of the underground structure should not exceed a limit of 3 m, otherwise it will be difficult to remove the dense silty sediment that has settled at the bottom of the pit.
About a meter of the lower part of the absorbing sewer structure must be filled with a “folk” filtering composition: sand, crushed stone, gravel, broken brick, as in the figure
The pit is filled with similar material from the outside. Before backfilling, waterproofing is performed to protect the structure from the aggression of groundwater and prevent the release of untreated wastewater.
Finally, a plate with two holes is installed. One of them is for the hatch through which cleaning can be done, the second is for the ventilation pipe.
Advice. In order to improve the quality of cleaning, it is recommended to supplement the filter well with a sealed storage tank located slightly above it with an overflow.

Schematic design of a homemade septic tank: wastewater is poured from a sealed cleaning container into an absorption cesspool, from where purified water penetrates the filtration field

Sealed

The construction principle is similar, only there is no need to form holes for the infiltration of treated wastewater and the bottom must be completely concreted. It is advisable to reinforce the lower concrete platform by laying a concrete mesh on the bottom before pouring. To prevent the reinforcement from “drowning” in the concrete, it must be slightly raised above the surface and secured on pegs.

An important aspect: it is recommended to seal the walls. A cheap option for internal insulation is bitumen; the outside of a homemade sewerage facility can simply be coated with clay. If the walls of the pit were built of brick, they can be plastered.

The standard design of a sealed cesspool with a concrete bottom, the walls can be built from concrete rings, lined with brick or gas silicate blocks, or a monolithic container can be made by pouring concrete into the formwork

Brickwork will take significantly more time than installing concrete rings. At the bottom, by analogy, a concrete screed is arranged, and bricks can be laid either in a circle or by “drawing” a square or rectangle in the perimeter. The poured concrete platform must “mature” before starting masonry, standing for 7-8 days.

Important. During the masonry period, it is necessary to form holes for the supply of sewer pipes. The connection point is located below the freezing level recorded by local weather services.

The sewer pipeline to the waste collection point should be slightly inclined to ensure spontaneous movement of the contaminated mass.

The pipe introducing wastewater into the pit must be located below the freezing level, the pipeline must be laid at an angle to ensure spontaneous movement of wastewater

Installation of ready-made complexes

It is impossible to think of anything simpler and more convenient than their use; the arrangement of a cesspool from precisely sized components is carried out extremely quickly. The only drawback: the volume parameters specified by the manufacturer. But they produce a factory product mainly with the average consumer in mind. That is, finding the necessary kit is not difficult at all.

There are many ways and methods to make a cesspool. From the variety of options, it remains to choose the optimal type of design that meets your needs. Which costs are more important, what is best to save on, is up to the owner and contractor to choose, and knowledge of the design differences will help make the right decision.

Today, there are a huge number of options and methods for installing a cesspool without pumping. Of course, in some understanding this is impossible, since sooner or later solid particles will have to be removed, but there are construction methods and means to postpone the date of calling the sewer trucks for many years. In our article we will consider the question of how to make a sump without the need for regular cleaning.

Today, there are many ways and methods for arranging a complete sewer system. If we consider the classification of cesspools, there are three types:

Sealed pits;
No need for pumping;
Septic tank.

Practice shows that the most popular option today is a sump storage tank. What does this mean? This pit does not have a bottom, so there is no need to clean it with a sewer machine. Although, it is worth saying that there is also a huge disadvantage, since the soil becomes polluted.

Advantages and disadvantages of cesspools without pumping

A cesspool without pumping is the simplest option for draining wastewater. In addition, this device has a number of advantages:

Simplicity of design, which makes it possible to build pits with your own hands;
Variability of materials for installation work;
Less frequent calls for vacuum cleaners;
Low price and production costs.

Having looked at all the advantages of this cesspool, you might think that this is an ideal system, but, like all others, it has flaws in its operation. Namely such as:

The difficulty of choosing a location for a pit in accordance with the rules and regulations;
Over time, absorption capacity decreases;
Unpleasant odor;
The pit is dangerous to the environment;
If biological bacteria are used, then it is unacceptable for chemicals to enter the sewer system.

Choosing a location for a pit without pumping

The cesspool should be located on the site of the house it will serve. It is worth considering that in our case it is a sump without a bottom, which has even more requirements and prohibitions. Let's take a look at all the rules for the location of the pit:

The distance from the pit to the house's water supply must exceed 10 meters, and to a well or borehole - 20 meters. This action will protect your home's water supply from possible overflows of the sewer system.
The distance between the septic tank and neighboring buildings should be more than 12 meters. If these regulations are not followed, the foundation of the neighbor’s house may collapse.
The distance from the fence to the pit cannot be less than one meter;
The depth of the settling tank is prohibited more than 3 meters.

Important! Only by following all the rules can you protect yourself from liability before the law.

DIY installation materials

To create a hole with your own hands, we will need many tools and materials. Which ones we will now find out. So:

A staircase that is as big as a pit;
Bayonet and shovel shovels;
Bucket and other containers;
Trowel, construction purpose;
Pegs to mark edges;
Building level.

The cesspool has a different structure and design. This is primarily influenced by what material you choose for the base. Today, most often a sump without pumping is built from the following materials:

From concrete parts;
Wood treated with resin;
Clay bricks;
Reinforced concrete rings;
Utilitarian material.

DIY cesspool construction

One of the questions that plagues many home owners is how to make sure that the pit does not require pumping. It arises especially acutely when building a sump with your own hands. Before you begin installing the structure, you need to find out the type of soil on your site and calculate the volume of drainage.

Sewage waste generally always contains impurities of solid particles that are not absorbed by the earth. It is for this reason that your cesspool will need sludge pumping out. This septic tank technology is designed for natural filtration. Therefore, the type of soil is very important.

Attention! If you see that the drainage has slowed down, we recommend making several holes in the walls of the system.

We have already said that the type of soil greatly influences the functioning of the sump. This happens because of this. That they have different densities and speeds of water passage. For example, if there is clay soil on your site, then runoff will seep through its layers for a very long time and, as a result, the pit will be overfilled. In such situations, it is necessary to install an additional outlet. The principle of operation is that when the first pit overflows, the waste flows through the pipe into the second.

This type of sump can be equated to a filtration well, because the pit also accumulates and purifies liquid with the help of soil. What cannot seep through the ground must be periodically pumped out using sewer trucks. It is worth considering that the maximum depth for the sump should not exceed 3 meters. Otherwise, the hoses will not be able to reach the sludge.

The dimensions and design features of the cesspool depend only on the liquid consumption in a particular house. Based on this, the volume for the pit is calculated as follows: the average water consumption by one person per day - 200 liters - is multiplied by the number of people living.

Pit made of concrete rings

The best option for a private house or cottage is a structure made of concrete rings. Its huge advantage is durability, and besides, you can build it with your own hands. It is worth noting that the walls of the sump can be made of a different material, but they are less reliable and durable. It is for this reason that the ring design is the most popular.

Stages of constructing a pit from concrete rings

As with the construction of any other septic tank, it all starts with digging a pit, that is, excavation work. They can be done with your own hands or using specialized equipment. It is best to carry out this stage when building the foundation of a house in order to save on the services of heavy equipment. Using the mechanized method, the structure and concrete rings are assembled by crane. In this case, it is very important to correlate the sizes of the elements.

But if you decide to build a device with your own hands, the installation technology is different. This is what we will talk about now. When installing yourself, you need to follow the following procedure:

At the chosen location, place one ring and dig out the earth inside it;
We level the bottom of the first ring with the ground line, after which we begin the installation of subsequent concrete components;
The number of circles is determined by the depth of the sewer pipes;
The best material for this process are devices made of concrete elements with perforated walls;
If the perforations are not in the device, then you will have to do it yourself. To do this, you need to maintain the following parameters: diameter - 5 cm, distance - 20 cm from each other in the form of a chessboard.
Cover the bottom of the pit with a 30 cm layer of sand and crushed stone;
We create holes at the pipeline entrance;
We place the pipe so that the distance from the concrete walls is 20 cm;
After this, install the check valve;
Fill the opening with mortar

Attention! Very often, a filtration well is installed near such a pit, which allows for improved wastewater treatment.

Covering the cesspool

To perform such an action as flooring, you can use either a factory-made or any other concrete slab. You can purchase it in the same place where rings are sold. But it’s worth noting that you can make the lid yourself. For this you will need cement, sand, crushed stone and reinforcement bars. All actions are performed in the following sequence:

We make markings with pegs and pull the cord;
Checking the diagonals;
We remove soil along the entire perimeter to the upper ring;
We cover the ring with reinforcement in two to three places;
We lay out a sheet of tin, which we cover on top with film;
We place reinforcing bars at intervals of 25 cm;
For all work, reinforcement piping is required;
We install a ventilation system;
And we install the finished cover structure.

This method of constructing a cesspool without pumping out guarantees a hundred-year lifespan. However, remember that periodically it will be necessary to remove solid particles that linger at the bottom.

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It is difficult to imagine modern life without public amenities. Yes, and it’s impossible. In this regard, living in an apartment is, of course, profitable and comfortable. The sewer system is already set up, and there is no need to worry about such a delicate issue. It’s another matter if you live in your own country house or just go with your family to the country for the weekend. Here it is up to you to take care of the sewerage system, its arrangement and maintenance. There is nowhere to go.

You can, of course, rely on the experience of companies offering sewer system setup services. But it will cost a pretty penny. Or you can purchase an entire local treatment plant. However, this will not be cheap either. Therefore, for those who want to save money and not strain the family budget too much, they have to roll up their sleeves and take up a shovel. Constructing a cesspool with your own hands is a simple matter, however, it requires some theoretical preparation and a detailed study of the issue. So let's get started.

Drain pit without bottom

Let's start with the fact that all cesspools can be divided into two large categories. Firstly, we are talking about those that have a bottom. In other words, such pits are sealed. The drainage from them does not fall into the soil layers, which means it pollutes the surrounding nature less. Secondly, there are pits without a bottom. Yes, this does not entirely meet environmental safety requirements. And with a hole like this you can always expect water to seep deep into the ground. And it is even more dangerous if dirty water gets into drinking sources. But a hole without a bottom is certainly the cheapest and simplest option.

If, in pursuit of savings, you have chosen the construction of such a “bottomless” pit, then you should consider the following points. Such a hole must be dug at a distance of at least one meter above the groundwater level. Otherwise, it is impossible to avoid drainage from getting into them. But even if you take this distance into account, it would be worth asking the question: how much runoff will such a pit absorb? If the amount of waste water exceeds one cubic meter per day, then under the weight and pressure the waste water will still go deep into the ground.

Therefore, if you know for sure that the cesspool will be constantly used, then it is better to abandon the idea of building it without a bottom. Most likely, such a simple pit in design is suitable for small country houses or for those residential buildings where dishwashers and washing machines are not used, where there is no bathtub, which means the volume of drainage water is small.

Now attention! However, if you decide to give up on all the rules about possible pollution of nature and, at your own peril and risk, dig a hole without a bottom, then it would be useful to first study the relevant articles of the laws on liability (read also: " "). Yes, yes, the law does provide for the responsibility of citizens for wastewater pollution of the surrounding area. So don't play with fire. And pay close attention to such an issue as installing a cesspool in a private house!

Making a cesspool without a bottom with your own hands

Perhaps the most severe version of a drain pit without a bottom is simply a small pit dug, the walls of which are reinforced with boards and covered with a layer of viscous and greasy clay on top. Typically, such designs accompany country toilets. Another simple way is to simply find empty barrels or even tanks (depending on your luck) and dig them into the ground. The cesspool is ready! However, such options, of course, will not withstand large volumes of waste water.

A more advanced, but also economical option, is the use of machine tires (more details: ""). In this case, constructing a cesspool with your own hands will be cheap and not labor-intensive. Tires are placed in the pit and firmly connected to each other. A hole is made in the top tire for a drain pipe leading to the house (read also: " "). A hatch is then placed on top. A concrete slab is suitable as it. Don't forget to make a vent and a hole with a lid for pumping out the contents.

By the way, such pits without a bottom are the most popular among the people. We can say “hit” among all similar designs. Here, in addition to low construction costs, there is also a plus in that the sewer truck will not “visit” your site so often. After all, part of the wastewater will be absorbed by the earth itself. And microorganisms in the soil layers will begin to absorb all these organic plums. But remember, you cannot throw household waste into such a pit. Harmful chemical elements can enter the soil. This means that pollution cannot be avoided!

In addition to tires, such cesspools are often made of concrete rings (although you will have to resort to the services of special equipment to install them) or simply line the walls with bricks. Gas silicate blocks are also used. Using them to make a cesspool is not difficult. You can see this in the photo. Read also: "".

By following these recommendations, you will definitely be able to avoid making mistakes in calculations during construction:

The depth of the drainage pit cannot be more than three meters. This figure has a very practical justification. The fact is that any cleaning hose is not designed for great depth. Accordingly, in order to effectively remove all accumulated dirt from drains, you should not make the hole excessively deep. It’s better to go broad than to dig deep if there is such a need.
If you take concrete rings as a basis (as a rule, you will need three rings for the entire structure), then you should first make a concrete screed around the perimeter of the dug pit (read: ""). This will provide greater stability to the rings. Also, do not forget to seal the joints between the rings. Any sealant will do. Experts advise coating the inside walls with bitumen, this will improve waterproofing. You need to make holes in the bottom ring. Several pieces, with a diameter of 5 to 10 cm. This will allow the already purified water to be squeezed out into the soil layers.
Place fine gravel, sand or crushed stone at the bottom of the cesspool. This will create minimal filtration of incoming wastewater.
And, finally, installing a drainage pit in a private house cannot do without the top covering of such a pit. We are, of course, talking about the lid. It can be a concrete slab or simply tarred boards. The main thing is not to forget about the ventilation hole in the lid and hatch for pumping out the contents.
Experts also offer this option - they dig two holes, one of which has a bottom, sealed, and the second (located at a higher level, not so deep) - without a bottom. The pits are connected by a pipe. Water from a sealed pit will flow into the adjacent one. And from there it penetrates and is absorbed into the soil layers. Such a sewer system can be seen in the photo.

Sealed drain pits

The variant of the simplest types of pits without a bottom is described in detail above. However, when it is necessary to install a cesspool in a private house, where a large volume of wastewater is expected, or the owners of the site are seriously concerned about the environmental safety of their sewer system, then it is time to think about a drainage pit with a bottom. Undoubtedly, the undoubted advantage of this design is its complete tightness. In addition, the unpleasant smell will be “sealed” inside. True, one of the minuses is the relatively quick filling of the pit. The services of a vacuum cleaner will have to be used on an ongoing basis. But such a system will also last much longer than previous options.

You can build such a pit using available materials: brickwork, concrete, plastic. However, you should not use cinder block materials. They can quickly be corroded by water. This means that the system will become unusable in a short time.

By the way, a pit created from a purchased plastic tank will be completely sealed. It is very easy to install. It is enough to dig a pit of the appropriate size and place a plastic container there. But still, for greater stability, experts recommend pre-filling the bottom of the pit with concrete. By the way, such plastic tanks do not need to be dug into the ground at all. They may well be located on the surface of the earth, in any part of your garden plot. But you can’t expect aesthetics from such a landscape.

An important point is that such a tank should not be filled to the brim. Otherwise, it is quite possible to expect deformation of the plastic walls from such an overload. It is better to empty the tank as soon as there is about a meter or one and a half left before it is completely full.

How to build a sealed pit for a private house

Construction of a cesspool with a bottom, of course, is somewhat heavier and more expensive. But still, the devil is not as scary as he is painted. In general, when constructing such a pit, the same rules are followed as for a structure without a bottom. But there is no need to provide filtration technological holes at the very bottom of the pit walls, because the main thing here is tightness! The bottom of such a sealed pit is concreted. It is first necessary to reinforce the bottom. Please note that the reinforcing mesh can easily “sink” in the concrete. Therefore, it is better to place it on wooden stakes until the poured concrete hardens.

To achieve complete tightness of the object, it is necessary to seal all possible joints, cracks, and holes in the walls. Bitumen is suitable for this. A cheaper option is to simply coat the walls with viscous clay. If you prefer brickwork, then ordinary plaster will do just fine. In addition, if you are working with brick, then do not forget that before laying the walls, you need to let the concrete bottom stand for a week at best.

Experts also note that it is important to correctly install the pipeline from the house to the sewer pit. It must be located on a slope. It is generally believed that a tilt angle of at least 3% must be maintained. And also do not forget that in the cold season the pipe can completely freeze. To avoid this, simply bury the pipe deeper. Usually the depth is at least one and a half meters. The main thing is that the soil does not freeze to such a depth. Read also: "Do-it-yourself cesspool - design options, construction methods."

We make a septic tank ourselves

Septic tanks are perhaps the most reliable wastewater treatment system. And not only cleaning, but also processing for further use, for example, in gardening. This design is a complex of pits, two or three, of which the first performs the function of primary collection and rough purification of incoming wastewater. And subsequent pits carry out much more thorough cleaning. However, there is a complication. The point is that it is not so easy to build and calculate the dimensions of such an object. After all, such a system must operate smoothly, and the liquid must easily move from one hole to another.

Of course, you can contact specialized companies. It won't be cheap. Or you can try to make such a system yourself. So, first you need to get some tires. Place the tires one on top of the other in a dug pit. The side, protruding parts of the tires need to be cut off. Place a concrete pipe inside the resulting well. Attention - its diameter should be two (!) times smaller than the diameter of the same tires. Be sure to make the bottom of the pipe concrete.

The output should be a sealed structure. The upper edges of the pipe should not be equal to the edges of the top tire, but should be approximately 10-20 cm lower. In the concrete pipe, do not forget to make small holes along the top for filtering. The sewer line is connected to a concrete pipe. The joint must also be well sealed. This is how you can make the simplest septic tank on your site.

Choosing a simple cesspool design option

Finally, if you feel that arranging a drainage pit will result in backbreaking work for you, then it is quite possible to purchase ready-made components for such a sewer facility. Concrete rings, blocks, already adjusted to the required diameter of the lid and hatches are sold, and all the necessary ventilation holes are made there. All you have to do is assemble, like a constructor, all these elements together. And, of course, be puzzled by how to dig a pit. The main thing is to select the desired diameter and volume of such an object. Don't make mistakes! Otherwise, the vacuum cleaner will have to be called very often to avoid overflowing the cesspool!

The times when a trip to the dacha involved living for several days in semi-primitive conditions are gradually passing. Increasingly, summer residents are acquiring the benefits of civilization: a comfortable toilet, running water, a bathroom, etc.

To ensure the functioning of all this, sewerage is necessary. Capital structures made of concrete, stone or brick are very expensive, and you need to spend a lot of time on them. It’s much easier to make your own tire cesspool. Old tires can be obtained at any car service station, and the technology for creating a cesspool is accessible even to a person without certain skills.

Before starting the construction of such a sewer structure, it is necessary to carefully weigh the pros and cons.

Advantages:

Maximum efficiency. The cost of materials for the manufacture of such a sewer pit is very low. There is no need to attract qualified specialists and pay for their work; there is no need to use special machinery and equipment.
Speed and ease of performing all work. A couple of people can complete the installation of a cesspool made from tires in 24 hours.
Relative durability. The tire material is not deformed or damaged under the influence of moisture and insects living in the soil, but a tire cesspool lasts about 10-12 years.
You can use tires from different cars with any diameter.

Flaws:

If you use an insufficiently reliable sealant when installing tires, leaks may occur.
An unpleasant odor may appear from under the hatch covering the tire pit.
If the structure is damaged during active use, it will be very difficult to repair or dismantle the tires.
Tire cesspool for sewage justifies itself only when 1-2 people live in the house. This design is not designed for a larger number of people.
This type of cesspool is not recommended if groundwater is located high.

Place the tires so that the top one rises slightly above the ground surface. This way there will be less danger of the pit overflowing if melt and rainwater enters it.
It is better to make a hole for the pipe directly when laying the tires in order to determine for sure the optimal depth of the pipe.
It is better to fill the gap between the tires and the walls of the pit with crushed stone not after all the tires have been installed, but as the object is being built.
A 60 cm high ventilation pipe must be installed under the top cover.