To ensure that there is no flood on the site after each rain, so that the foundation does not get wet and collapse, it is necessary to ensure the removal of precipitation. This requires rainwater drainage. We can see it in cities - it is a system of water receiving devices and canals. Storm drainage in a private house is smaller in size, but its essence is the same. This is not to say that it is easy to do, but you can do it yourself, especially if you have already done something on the site with your own hands.
What is a storm drainage system for a private house and what types does it have?
In regions with high rainfall, it is necessary to drain rain and melt water somewhere. If this is not done, the paths gradually collapse, the soil in the yard becomes soggy, and then dries out for a long time. If you do not make a blind area around the house, rainwater will wash away and gradually destroy the foundation. In general, storm drainage in a private house is the key to the longevity of your home, order and a neat appearance on your site. This type of engineering systems is also called storm drainage or rainwater drainage.
The composition of the system is as follows:
Where to put the water
Most of the questions arise about what to do with the rapidly arriving sediments. Firstly, storm drainage in a private house can become a supplier of water for irrigation. To do this, all the pipes of the system are brought into a large container or several containers, and from there, using a pump, they can be pumped into the irrigation system.
Secondly, if there is nothing to water or nowhere to put such a volume of liquid, you can drain stormwater into a centralized sewer system, a drainage ditch, or a body of water located nearby. If these possibilities cannot be realized, a system for discharging water into the ground is installed. These are perforated plastic pipes buried below ground level.
Types and their features
Storm sewerage in a private house can be of three types:
In each specific case you have to design your own circuit - there is no single recipe. Each has its own site with its own characteristics: the absorbency of the soil, the topography, the building, the layout.
What exactly needs to be done is to divert the water away from the house. This can be done as in the photo above - by installing gutters in the path and draining the water onto the lawn. But this is only one of many options. The second place where it is advisable to drain water is a large paved area. As a rule, large puddles form here, which are difficult to deal with. You can solve the problem by making one or more water collection points - installing point rainwater inlets and draining the water according to one of the recipes.
Combined or separate
Often in a private house it is necessary to install three drainage systems at once:
- drainage;
- storm
They often run parallel or are located close to each other. Naturally, there is a desire to save money and combine stormwater with some other one. In particular, use an existing well. I must say right away that it is better not to do this. Why? During a rainstorm, water comes at a very high speed. On average - from 10 cubic meters per hour (maybe more). At this rate of water flow, the well fills up very quickly. Sometimes it gets full.
If the discharge goes into a sewer well, water begins to flow into the sewer pipes. It won’t rise above the ground level, but you won’t be able to lower anything either - everything will be stuck in the plumbing. After the water level drops, debris remains inside. It interferes with the normal operation of the sewer system, so you have to clean it. Not the most pleasant thing to do.
Simultaneous installation of all systems on the site - the main thing is not to get confused
If the discharge goes into a drainage well, the situation is even worse. During a rainstorm, water enters the system under high pressure. It fills the pipes, then pours out under the foundation, washing it away. You can imagine the consequences. There are still things that are not so obvious. For example, silting of drainage pipes. It is impossible to clean them; you have to replace them. And this is a lot of expense and a lot of work.
So from all that has been said we can draw a conclusion. First, storm drainage in a private house must have its own well. Second - it is desirable that it be large. This is if you are unlucky enough to have a pond, lake or river nearby.
Components of storm drains and their types
All elements of storm drainage in a private house must be connected into a system. Here's what it might consist of:
- Well. It must be large in volume. How big depends on the amount of rainfall, the size of the roof and the area from which the water is collected. Most often it is made from concrete rings. It differs from the water one only by the need to make a bottom. To do this, you can put a ring with a bottom down (there are factory ones), or you can fill the slab yourself. Another option is plastic wells for rainwater drainage. They are buried to the required depth, anchored (chained) to poured concrete platforms so that they do not “float up”. The good thing about this solution is that there is no need to worry about the tightness of the seams - such vessels are completely sealed.
- Hatch over the storm well. It is best to take a ring and a separate hatch (plastic, rubber or metal - your choice). In this case, you can dig in the rings so that the upper edge of the installed lid is 15-20 cm below the ground level. To install the hatch, you will have to lay out a brick or fill the neck with concrete, but the lawn planted on top will feel good and will not differ in color from the rest of the planting. If you take a ready-made cover with a hatch, you can add only 4-5 cm of soil. On such a layer of soil, the lawn will differ in both color and thickness, paying attention to what is underneath it.
- Point storm water inlets. These are relatively small containers that are installed in places where precipitation accumulates. They are placed under drainpipes, at the lowest points of the site. Stormwater inlet bodies can be plastic or concrete. Concrete is used when constructing deep storm drains. They are placed one on one, achieving the required height. Although today there are already built-on plastic storm water inlets.
- Linear storm water inlets or drainage channels. These are plastic or concrete gutters. These devices are installed in areas of the highest rainfall - along roof overhangs, if a drainage system is not installed, along pedestrian paths. Can be installed under gutters as gutters. This option is good if pipes for water drainage have not been installed. In this case, the receivers are placed outside the blind area, and the second end of the tray is connected to it. This is a way to make a storm drain without destroying the blind area.
- Sand traps. Special devices in which sand is deposited. They usually install plastic cases - they are inexpensive but reliable. They are installed at some distance from each other on long sections of the pipeline. Sand and other heavy inclusions are deposited in them. These devices need to be cleaned periodically, but this is much more convenient than cleaning the entire system.
- Lattices. In order for water to drain away better, the holes in the grate should be large. They are:
- Pipes. For storm drainage, it is best to install polyethylene pipes for outdoor use (red color). Their smooth walls do not allow sediment to accumulate, and they also have greater conductivity than pipes of the same diameter made of other materials. Cast iron and asbestos pipes are also used. A little about the diameter of stormwater pipes. It depends on the amount of precipitation and the branching of the system. But the minimum diameter is 150 mm, and better yet, more. The pipes are laid with a slope of at least 3% (3 cm per meter) towards the storm water inlets, and then towards the well.
- Inspection wells. These are small plastic or concrete wells that are placed along a long section of the pipeline, in places where the system branches. Pipes are cleaned through them, if necessary.
On extended sections, inspection points are needed to clear possible blockages in pipes
The storm sewer system in a private house does not always contain all these devices, but from them you can build a system of any configuration and complexity.
Construction procedure
In general, first you need to create a project. If there is no opportunity or desire to use the services of professionals, draw it to scale (on a piece of paper or in one of the programs). This way you can decide quite accurately what you need and how much. Having purchased the necessary materials, you can begin work.
First, a drainage system is installed. Then the installation of storm drainage begins. It makes sense to carry out this work simultaneously with the laying of drainage and sewer systems, as well as to carry out preparation work for laying paths and blind areas. All of these jobs require soil removal, so why not do it all at once?
Installing a rainwater inlet - fill it with concrete and “weight it down” with something heavy so that it doesn’t squeeze out
If other systems are already ready or they are simply not needed, you can dig trenches. They should be 10-15 cm greater than the required depth. Crushed stone is poured into the bottom of the trenches, and pipes are laid in it and devices are installed. Crushed stone will neutralize heaving forces: it always remains mobile, so that under load it simply moves from place to place. As you know, the devices installed in it hardly feel the load.
When installing rainwater inlets, they are concreted. They put formwork around it and fill it with a 15-20 cm layer of concrete. It must be calculated so that the finishing coating that you are going to lay fits normally.
Rainwater drainage will allow rain and melt water to be carried further away from the foundation of the house through pipes, ditches and trays to low places or organized watercourses.
Rainwater drainage can be of a closed, open or combined type. The simplest of all is open. When installing an open rain drain, water from the roof and roadway, as well as from the blind area of the house, is collected in special trays or ditches.
Further, thanks to the slope of the trays or ditches, the water is drained to the side, further from the house into low places or thalwegs. A combined water drainage system is used when calculations have determined that it is more expedient to replace some elements of the open-type system with underground drainage pipes.
Most often you can find a closed-type rainwater drainage system, when water flowing from the roofs of houses and the surrounding area is drained through pipes located at a calculated depth in the ground. Such pipes are laid in the ground at the stage of landscaping work and are hidden from view. That is why today In this article we will consider the option of installing a closed type rainwater drainage system.
Photo-1. Example of a rainwater drainage system.
In photo 1 you can see a clear example of a rainwater drainage system, where the number 1 indicates water intake wells. They collect water from the area adjacent to the house. The number 2 indicates the inspection well.
Before you get down to work, you need to think through everything and draw up a drainage project. The project must indicate the number and location of water intake and inspection wells, as well as the length of the rainwater drainage system, the depth of the pipes and their estimated diameter.
To draw up a competent project, exclusively for your home and site, you need to order such a project from a design organization. The design organization will competently calculate for you the approximate estimated amount of storm water collected from the roof and also from the surrounding area. Based on the obtained estimated volume of water, the diameter is then assigned drainage pipes, the number of drainage wells and the length of rainwater drainage.
When there is no such project drawn up by specialists in the design organization, you need to calculate everything yourself, then buy everything you need. The following must be taken into account:
1. The total amount of wastewater that can collect from the roof and surrounding area during a rainstorm or melting snow.
2. Terrain and estimated amount of precipitation (specific to your area).
3.The type of soil prevailing in your area, the exact number of water intake wells, the length of rainwater drainage and the diameter of the pipes.
Closed rainwater drainage system
Photo-2.Laying drainage pipes into the ground.
To install rainwater drainage you need:
1. Dig a trench along the entire perimeter of the house with the required slope for laying drainage pipes.
2. Lay water intake wells at the calculated distance from each other and to the calculated depth.
3. Arrange a base layer of sand up to 30 cm high.
4. Compact the base layer of sand well, then lay the drainage pipes.
5. Cover the laid pipes with a protective layer of sand of the calculated height and compact them.
6.Fill the drainage pipes with soil and compact them.
The depth of the trench for laying pipes should be lower than the freezing depth of the soil in this area, by about 30 centimeters, to prevent water from freezing in the pipes. After this, water intake wells are located at a calculated distance (in this case, 15-20 meters from each other).
Photo-3. Water intake well.
Water intake wells are made of concrete rings with a diameter of up to one meter into which the ends of drainage pipes are brought out.
In such cases, if possible, it is necessary to use special equipment for digging trenches and laying concrete rings. Very important! Drainage pipes should be located at a distance of 20 to 40 centimeters from the bottom of the well, to prevent silting or clogging with various debris. Thus, the flow of water mixed with silt, entering a concrete well through the pipes, will leave a significant amount of silt particles or debris in the form of deposits at the bottom of the well.
Photo-4. Coating pipes with a layer of sand.
Next, a sand layer up to 30 centimeters high is placed at the bottom of the trench and compacted. Drainage pipes are laid over the sand layer, in this case with a diameter of ∅20 cm. The pipes must be given the required slope. The slope is assigned by calculation, but in this case, per meter of pipe length is given 1.5 cm. That is, if the pipe is 6 meters long, then the second end of the pipe should be laid 9 centimeters lower in relation to the first. Of course, if the slope is greater, the better, in such cases the less the pipe becomes clogged with silt.
Photo-5. Making holes in a concrete ring.
Holes with a diameter of ∅22 centimeters are made into concrete rings and the ends of the pipes are walled up. Water intake wells are used to receive water from the adjacent territory, and, if necessary, can also be used to clean drainage pipes from silting.
Photo-6. Laying pipes in the ground to drain water from the yard.
To drain water from the roof of the house along the entire perimeter of the house at a distance of approximately 50 centimeters (see photo 3) from the foundation of the house, pipes are laid to the calculated depth. Next, other trenches are dug perpendicular to them and pipes of the same diameter and rings are laid to drain water from the area adjacent to the house.
Photo-7. Drainage pipes ready for filling with sand.
All gaps between the pipes and the concrete walls of the ring must be sealed with strong cement mortar.
Photo-8. Compaction of the sand layer.
After laying the pipes on a compacted layer of sand, they are covered with another layer of sand and compacted. The height of the sand layer from the top of the laid drainage pipe is taken by calculation, but in this case it is 30 centimeters. To compact the sand, it is more advisable to use a vibrating machine.
Photo-9. Filling drainage pipes with earth.
After the drainage pipes have been laid to the calculated depth and the layer of sand has been sufficiently compacted, they are covered with soil and thoroughly compacted.
Photo-10. Water intake well.
Water is removed from the area adjacent to the house, as well as from the blind area of the house, using water intake wells. Such wells must be constantly clean during operation, that is, regularly cleaned of silt and dirt.
In case of excessive waterlogging of the soil in the area adjacent to the house, a drainage system is installed around the house.
Photo-11.Vertical drainpipes.
Water flows from the roof into gutters, then through water inlet funnels into vertical drainpipes and is discharged into an underground drainage pipe system.
Storm drainage is a complex of devices that collect, filter and further remove atmospheric moisture. It enters reservoirs and special reservoirs. The task of this system is to eliminate excess moisture, which creates discomfort and destroys structures, reducing their service life. This also applies to plants that are hampered by excess moisture in the area.
Description
Storm drainage is a linear network that includes standard elements such as storm water inlets, gutters and manholes. If we are talking about storm water inlets, they have the form of pallets, funnels, as well as linear trays that collect excess water. Trays, pipes and gutters transport liquid to a sand trap, which is a filtration device that sends water into a pond or reservoir. necessary to control the entire system. To ensure that the network does not become contaminated with plant fibers, debris and soil, it needs sand traps and filters. All of the listed elements must be interconnected into a single system that operates using point or linear technology. If the channels are located in the ground, pipes should be used for their construction. Gutters and trays made of concrete, asbestos or plastic are installed in surface channels.
Gathering information before installation work
Before you install a rainwater drainage system, you need to collect certain information that will allow you to eliminate errors. This should include data on the average amount of precipitation recorded in a particular area. The master should find out how often it rains, and also inquire whether the snow cover is heavy. For a point type of sewer system, it is necessary to know the drainage area, which is the area of the roof. You should not take the full value; you only need the projection value of the plane. If we are talking about a linear system, then the drainage area is the sum of the areas of the processed objects. It is important to carry out a soil analysis, since the design uses the physical and mechanical characteristics of the soil on the site. It is important to consider whether there are underground communication systems on the territory.
If you are installing a storm drain, it is important to familiarize yourself with the information about the depth of the canals. It is necessary to lay channels and trays from pipes, taking into account the recommendations that are given for a particular region. In the middle zone, the rainwater drainage system is laid to a depth of 0.3 meters. This figure is correct when the diameter of open trays and pipelines is no more than 50 centimeters. If we are talking about pipes and trays with larger sizes, then it is necessary to go deeper by 0.7 meters.
For reference
The sewage system should be located above the drainage, if such a system exists in the work area. This feature should be taken into account when designing.
What else you need to know about the depth of the system elements
Due to the fact that excavation work is quite expensive, people who use professional installation services do not want to go too deep into the ground. Even if you install a storm drain on your own, it is not recommended to install it too deeply. and collectors should not be located below the seasonal soil freezing level. They can be placed higher, but you will have to use thermal insulation material, a layer of crushed stone and geotextiles. If the deepening is not too noticeable, the labor intensity of the work will be reduced. It should not be forgotten that the channels that lead water to collection and purification should be located at an angle. This indicates the need to arrange an entrance to the collector well below the level of the pipe or tray, one of which extends from the storm inlet.
Stormwater installation technology
Rainwater drainage is laid according to the same principle as conventional sewerage. But if the house is not equipped with a drainage system, then you need to start with its arrangement. Holes for rainwater inlets should be made in the floors of the house. After installing the devices and fixing them to bitumen mastic, the junction points must be sealed. At the next stage, sewer pipes are installed, all elements are attached to the house structures using clamps. Next, you can move on to working with trays if you decide to use a linear type of system. When installing a point circuit, outlet pipes should be prepared.
Installation of the underground part
The construction of a storm drainage network involves at the next stage the preparation of a trench, which is formed according to the planned plan, taking into account the slope. If the pipeline is to be insulated, then a shell of geotextile and crushed stone should be formed around it. An alternative option is to use a sand cushion. At the next stage, the bottom of the trench is compacted and the stones are removed. The spaces formed after them must be filled with soil. The bottom is filled with a sand cushion, the thickness of which is 20 centimeters. To install the collector tank, a pit must be formed. You can use a plastic container as a collector. But if you wish, you can make a rainwater collector well. These works involve pouring concrete into equipped formwork.
Work methodology
Pipes should be laid in ditches that have been compacted and equipped with sand cushions. To connect them into one system, you need to use fittings. If the rainwater drainage pipes have a total length of more than 10 meters, then the presence of inspection wells should be provided. Sand traps must be installed at the junction of the water-receiving collectors and the pipeline. After connecting all the elements into a single chain, it is necessary to seal the seams. Before backfilling the trench, tests are carried out by pouring water into the water intake.
If no weak points are found, then you can fill the system with soil. Gutters and pallets are equipped with gratings.
The city collector well is prohibited from being introduced into the general sewer network, since it discharges wastewater containing petroleum products and chemicals. If you are the owner of a country house, you can connect the storm drain to your own sewer system, since the discharged water will not contain hazardous components that might require fine cleaning. Drainage pipes are most often made of PVC, and their diameter should be 110 millimeters. The elements are connected to each other using a double coupling. The slope of the sewer towards the spillway should be approximately 2 centimeters per meter.
Conclusion
The storm drain should not be combined with the drainage system. If this requirement is neglected, the water will gradually saturate the underground clay soils, which will begin to swell and destroy the blind area, as well as structures and foundations. For this reason, you should not dump storm water into the sewer system of a swimming pool or bathhouse.
The task, the solution of which should be a high-quality project and competent installation of storm drainage, requires an integrated approach. This is a complex engineering system, the development of which requires compliance with certain technical standards. Mandatory coordination and approval of the project by the sanitary and epidemiological service; bodies whose department is the regulation and protection of waters; bodies whose task is to protect fish stocks.
The company "MVS Ecology" is ready to provide you with a full range of services in this area:
- design storm drainage;
- coordinate the project with all of the above government agencies;
- install a storm sewer system on your property.
The first and main condition for creating a technically and technologically competent storm water drainage project is to entrust the work to professionals.
Only if this condition is met can a guarantee of safety and reliability be given.
Rainwater equally spills onto private houses, and onto villages built with cottages, and onto highways - their drainage is required from everywhere. The difference is only in the volume of loads. A well-designed storm sewer project requires a thorough study of the object and all its specific features. A scrupulous analysis, the purpose of which is to study all the conditions of the proposed operation. This includes taking into account the estimated water volumes to be processed and the nature of the pollution that may be generated; what size area will need to be covered; what is the geology and geodesy of a particular site; what additional external influences the designed structure may be subject to.
First of all, drawing up a sewerage project for drainage of rainwater involves the development of design documentation based on technical specifications, drawings, diagrams and regulatory documents for various purposes, such as SNiP 2.04.03-85, GOST 3634-99, SanPiN 2.1.5.980-00 etc. The technical specification is a fundamental document. When drawing up and filling it out, the wishes expressed by the Customer are certainly taken into account if they comply with GOST 19.201-78. Also, the document contains information about the time frame for completing the order, what the functional purpose of the device is, what the control procedure will be, and what technical and economic requirements are imposed. Various applications are possible.
When calculating storm drainage, it is necessary to take into account the following points: decide on the intended type of sewerage. Where and in what quantity to place sewer wells. The diameter and length of the pipes, what material they are made of. What sensors and alarms will be used. When choosing a system, it is important to take into account the size of the catchment area, whether there are natural or artificial reservoirs, what are the statistics of precipitation rates, what is their maximum. It is also necessary to take into account the speed at which rainwater flows and other important factors that depend on the characteristics of the particular object being developed.
Monetary investment is also one of the components when calculating storm sewerage. This means drawing up a detailed estimate, the size of which directly depends on:
- point water collectors located in low places;
- drainage pipe systems;
- storm sewer wells, the purpose and modifications of which are different;
- filters for specialized cleaning.
If the Customer deems it necessary, the system can be supplemented.
Different types of storm drainage wells differ functionally. The task of some is the collection of wastewater and its distribution with subsequent treatment; others - erosion of sediment; third - measuring the level of water flow; fourth - taking water samples after purification; fifth - maintenance and inspection of structures located underground.
Some regions experience rainfall, while others experience snowy winters. In such situations, it often becomes necessary to install an entire system for draining rain and melt water. This issue is relevant both for settlements of different levels and for private households.
When it comes to such an important structure as a storm sewer, SNiP, GOST and similar regulatory documents are very important. After all, only a properly constructed storm drainage system will work properly and for a truly long time.
This is a utility network whose purpose is to collect excess moisture from a certain area and then drain it away. Requirements for the construction of storm sewers (storm drains) are established by SNiP 2.04.03-85.
It is this document that must be followed at all stages: during preliminary calculations, design and construction itself. It is important to note that SNiP 2.04.03 - this is the spelling that is sometimes found - does not actually exist, this is an incorrect spelling of the norms, the number of which is indicated above.
Sometimes the question arises about the need to comply with SNiP: can’t sewerage in small areas be built without complex calculations and design, “by eye”?
No, because failure to comply with certain rules often results in disruption of the entire system, problems due to stagnation of water, as well as losses. Hence the conclusion: if a site really needs storm sewerage, SNiP is a mandatory document.
What are storm drains like?
The type of stormwater system can be point or linear. In the first case, everything is relatively simple. Point storm drainage is a number of storm water inlets that are installed under the drainpipes of buildings and then connected into a drainage system. One of the main elements of such a storm drain is special sand catchers and protective grilles.
The linear type of storm drainage is much more complex in its organization. Here we are talking about drainage of wastewater not only from buildings, but also from the adjacent land plot. A network of channels is added to the storm water inlets (it is arranged using drainage trays or pipes), as well as the main collector. Door trays may also be required - the same rain inlets, only used in front of gates, wickets and doors.
The construction of storm drainage systems on large plots of land also requires the presence of inspection wells. With their help, you can check how the entire system works and carry out preventive cleaning of storm drains.
When installing a linear type storm drain, you have to take into account a lot of important points. Here are just some of the parameters taken into account by SNiP:
- pipe type,
- burial depth plus much more.
Depending on the type of location relative to the surface of the earth, storm drainage can be external or internal.
External storm drainage
The most common example is the installation of drains along paths. A system of this type involves the installation of special drainage trays covered with gratings.
External storm drainage often serves aesthetic purposes, since the external elements of the system can be decorative. The undoubted advantage of an external system for drainage of storm and melt water is the relative simplicity of the device, as well as ease of use: easy washing in case of blockages and contamination, replacement of damaged elements if necessary.
Internal storm drainage
Such a system is much more complicated, as it involves serious calculations. Internal storm sewerage involves a significant amount of work on digging and equipping trenches in the ground, laying pipes, and installing inspection wells. At the same time, internal storm drainage, when properly equipped, copes well with any volume of waste and melt water.
Where does design begin?
Calculation of storm drainage is the most important part. SNiP for sewerage contains the necessary formulas, as well as a number of values that will be required for substitution. To start the calculation, you need the following information:
- How much precipitation does the area receive on average?
- What is the drainage area? This value is the sum of the areas of all roofs and other waterproof surfaces (concrete-filled paths, canopies).
- What type of soil is on the site?
- Where are underground communications located (if any).
All the data has been collected - it’s time to calculate the theoretical volume of water according to SNiPs. It is important not to forget about the correction factors and calculated values of precipitation, which are collected in a special table in the rules.
Installation of a storm drain is impossible without these preliminary calculations. Storm sewerage, the calculation of which is incorrect, is unlikely to completely solve the problem of drainage. The essence of the error is not particularly important: an incorrectly selected storm pipe, inclination angle or collector volume.
An error on the downside usually results in overloading the entire system during significant rainfall and/or snowmelt. If you oversupply materials, installing storm drains can become a very expensive undertaking.
A complete design of a storm drainage system must take into account not only SNiP for sewerage. Storm drainage involves following GOST 21.604-82, which is dedicated to external water supply and sewerage networks.
The document contains a list of sections that must be included in a full-fledged project.
At what depth should the pipes be laid?
Here, a lot depends on the diameter of the pipes, the climate, and the type of soil. As a guide, let’s take the average values: in the middle zone, pipes with a diameter of 50 cm or less can be laid to a depth of 0.3 meters. This depth of storm drainage is considered sufficient. With a larger pipe diameter, the depth should also be larger: 0.7 meters.
If the storm sewer pipes are not deep enough, during frosts it is possible that ice jams may form inside and even pipeline ruptures. Repairing such damage is labor-intensive and often expensive.
Why is it so important to maintain slope?
Everything is simple here: if the storm sewer pipes are laid at the right angle, the wastewater will “send” to the collector by gravity. If the slope is insufficient, stagnation of water forms in the pipes/trays, which can turn into ice in cold weather. If you make the slope too large, this can lead to rapid siltation of the pipeline.
It is recommended to calculate the minimum slope according to SNiP. There are situations where it is impossible to lay pipes at the proper angle (usually in rocky or frozen soils). In this case, the design must take into account the use of special drainage pumps.
Storm drain to sewer
This is one of the frequently asked questions. Experience shows that private homeowners sometimes have thoughts of combining their house sewer system with a storm sewer system. Typically, such ideas are related to the fact that in both types of systems we are talking about wastewater disposal.
It is strongly not recommended to implement such ideas. Stormwater discharged into the sewer system can seriously hamper the operation of the liquid waste disposal system. Storm sewers are characterized by sharp increases in the filling of pipes.
During heavy rainfalls or massive snow melting, the sewage pipeline may simply not have enough capacity. Due to the reasons stated above, stormwater drainage into the sewer system becomes simply an unacceptable option for draining rain and snowmelt runoff.
What is a storm drain protection zone?
This concept is confusing to many. But the establishment of a storm sewer security zone is a direct requirement of SNiP. We are talking about the distance in both directions from the location of any element of the drainage system (or from its projection onto the surface of the earth, if the system is buried). This distance is five meters. In the specified zone you cannot:
- build something (even if it’s just a shed);
- dump garbage;
- park;
- make landings (here the zone can be reduced to three meters).
The presence of a security zone also implies free access to any inspection storm sewer well.
Storm sewerage, built on the basis of careful calculations in accordance with SNiP 2.04.03-85, fully solves all problems of draining rain and/or snowmelt runoff and ensures the protection of building foundations, as well as adjacent areas.
