Dzharylgach rest with tents. Uninhabited island of Dzharylgach. Motor ship Anna II

In mid-August 2015, representatives of “Kherson Tourist” made a long-awaited trip to. This journey, full of adventures, turned out to be quite eventful - together with the director and employees of the Dzharylgachsky NPP, we drove through the northern part of the island, visited the Glubokaya spit, the Dzharylgachsky lighthouse and the eastern tip of the island.

Geogr. reference. Dzharylgach Island is the largest in area and the second in length (after the Tendra Spit) island of Ukraine and the Black Sea. It is washed by the Karkinit Bay and the Dzharylgach Bay. Area 62 km². It has an elongated shape (from west to east), from the west it continues with a long spit connecting the island with the shore. The spit of the island is separated from the mainland by a narrow strait, which sometimes dries up, formally turning the island into a peninsula. The island is low-lying and practically invisible from afar. It has open sources of fresh water - never drying up lakes and underground waters.

1. Heading northwest.

National Natural Park Dzharylgachsky is part of the natural chain in the seasonal latitudinal migration of migratory birds. About 250 species of birds choose the island for nesting, wintering or stopping over during migration. There are also mammals on the island, there are 15 species of them. According to the park director Svetlana Shulgi, you can meet them on spring walks or in late autumn, when the animals are not hiding from the heat. It happens that you stare at the seascapes, and turn around and find a whole herd of deer or fallow deer nearby. Of all the representatives of the flora and fauna of the island, 81 species are listed in the Red Book of Ukraine.

Of course, you need to be at least Paustovsky to describe in words all the beauty of the pristine nature of Dzharylgach Island. We will try to convey the beauty of this steppe landscape with the help of the panoramas we shot:

2. Deep braid.

There are several large spits on the island - Levkina, Durilova, Melkaya, Glubokaya and Sinyaya. Particularly known Deep braid, where it is located every summer reed town “U Gavrilovich”. Here travelers will be offered a beach holiday, food and overnight accommodation. The Black Sea fish menu is especially recommended, because on the island the food itself floats into the hands of the fisherman - stingray fish soup, fried sea fish, traditional sea goby. All this is very tasty and authentic, but with the seasonal influx of people, the question of hygiene and cleanliness remains, alas, open. Although for the majority of citizens vacationing there, thanks to the brisk trade in cold beer, this issue has lost its relevance.

Well, of course, the Dzharylgach lighthouse is rightfully considered the heart of the island. You can get to the lighthouse beach by motor ship Om-104. This old veteran makes three flights every day, delivering those who want to swim in the clear sea to the beach.

Also, it is possible to rent private watercraft of various levels of comfort and price categories. An hour and a half along the waves - and we really find ourselves in a real blue lagoon! White soft sand, azure transparent sea, clean air. Although, of course, civilization here is slowly reminding itself of itself - the music of moored yachts, sun loungers and beach awnings, set meals on the ship... Well, all this is kind of light, and it is still possible to find a secluded place.

Let's go to the lighthouse. Our guide, lighthouse keeper Pavel, has been working at his post for more than twenty years, and during this time he has seen many interesting stories.

From his stories we learned that during Soviet times, four families permanently lived on the island and looked after the lighthouse. In the seventies, during a big storm that washed away a piece of the island along with its buildings, families were resettled to the mainland, and after that incident, the island ceased to be a permanent place of residence for lighthouse keepers. They visit him regularly, permanently living on the mainland. At first the lighthouse was wooden, then, according to the design of the famous Gustav Eiffel, a beautiful openwork steel lighthouse was built, which operated until 1997. Now, unfortunately, the ancient beautiful lighthouse, of architectural value, stands ownerless and abandoned, while the sea is advancing and nature takes its toll... A new lighthouse was built nearby - it is a simple white mast, which, although it fits into the landscape, does not have any special pretensions to artistry. The main thing, of course, is that the lighthouse exists, works and fulfills its functions. From there we filmed our panoramas of the amazing pristine expanses of Dzharylgach Island.

Another gift from nature is a spring with cold fresh water right next to the lighthouse! People are so accustomed to this miracle that it is already taken for granted. And how damn nice it really is to drink cold spring water in the middle of the midday island heat! At one time, a well 90 meters deep was dug here by hand. There are also 4 salt and 2 artesian wells on the island, which belong to the Black Sea artesian basin.

The first mentions of this uninhabited island can be found in the works of the ancient authors Herodotus and Ptolemy - the myth about the creation of the spit dates back to the period of the Trojan War. In addition, there is an opinion. that it is the island of Dzharylgach that is mentioned in the legendary Homer’s “Odyssey”. In general, where the name Dzharylgach came from is a big question. In open sources, speaking about this name, they mention it as a word of Turkic origin, which in translation means “scorched earth,” and also, from the Crimean Tatar, “split, cracked,” which is intriguing and raises questions on the topic.

In fact, as we learned from the story Sergei Dyachenko, a famous Kherson local historian and an active member of the editorial board of “Kherson Tourist”, the word “jarylgach” should not be translated in any way. After all, this is only a Turkic distortion of its more ancient name, in this case, the name “Terlagash”, mentioned on maps of a previous time. On medieval maps of the XIV-XV centuries. Italian sailors called the island “insula rossa”, “illa rossa”. But let’s not rush to conclusions here either, because the Italians were guests in our area and could not give a new name to the island, which was well known to ancient sailors, in this case, the Greeks.

In general, Dzharylgach Island is fraught with many mysteries. What is the Orthodox monastery and its hermit monk Mark worth... So far we have not been able to see him, but listening and reading stories about this interesting person, I immediately remember the film “The Island” by Pavel Lungin with its sacred plot). Indeed, amazing things are nearby...

4. Waters of Karkita Bay

The eastern tip of the island is stunning in its splendor. When you stand there on the shore, watching the foaming waves, you feel as if you have reached the end of the world...

Many tourists come to enjoy this beauty and set up tent camps on the island. However, in August 2015, the Border Service of Ukraine issued a decree banning overnight accommodation on the island, and therefore, before going to the island with a tent, we advise you to carefully study the latest news on this topic.

But for those for whom a day stay on Dzharylgach is enough, there is a beautiful beach at the southern tip of the island, equipped with tents and changing rooms.

We hope that your trip to Dzharylgach Island will be no less exciting, and that you will treat the spirit of the island and its wonderful nature with love and respect!

The film crew of “Kherson Tourist Region” thanks the Department of Foreign Trade, Tourism and Resorts of the KhORSA, the Dzharylgachsky National Natural Park and its director Shulga Svetlana Nikolaevna, as well as the attentive navigators of our boat and the workers of the Dzharylgach lighthouse for their assistance in filming and preparing the material.

See more 3D panoramas of the island
on a virtual tour of Dzharylgach Island:
https://3dkherson.com/ostrov-dzharylgach

Soon these panoramas will become part of a large virtual tour “Tourist pearls of the Kherson region”, which is currently being worked on in the Grades studio, and which we will be happy to present to your attention in the near future.

Victoria Kravtsova, Alexey Miroshnikov
Kherson region Tourist

Legends of the Black Sea that you will learn today concern the small islands located in its vastness. In general, this sea is not as rich in islands as the Mediterranean, but even here famous heroes and gods of Greek myths were noted. The Romans and Greeks in ancient times located their temples and military sites on some of these islands. This has been proven by archaeological finds. Not surprisingly, many of these islands are still shrouded in mystery. The most interesting islands are Berezan, Zmeiny and Dzharylgach.

An incredibly romantic legend describes the creation of the island of Dzharylgach. Achilles decided to marry one of the priestesses of Artemis, who had taken a vow of celibacy. That's why the girl refused him, and he decided to take possession of her by force. The priestess chose death over marriage, deciding to drown herself in the sea. Artemis had a hand in the tragedy, protecting her subject. She poured sand in front of the running girl, as a result of which a long island was formed, popularly nicknamed Achilles' Run.

The ancient Greeks called this island the Coast of Achilles in their chronicles. Herodotus and Ptolemy described Dzharylgach as densely covered with trees. Later the Turks called this island “Burnt Trees”, what happened at that time is unknown. Today it is a sandy island, there is very little greenery on it, but there are many places where it is pleasant to sunbathe. Dzharylgach Island– this is truly a must-see place, especially during a cruise on the Black Sea.

Another legend about the Black Sea concerns the Snake Island and is also associated with the hero Achilles. Ancient legends say that Achilles hid from Roman tax collectors in the underwater caves of this island in the 6th century BC. ill-gotten property. The Temple of Achilles stood here in ancient times, and until 1836 its foundation was preserved, but it was dismantled for the construction of a lighthouse - the only architectural structure on the island. Now Zmeiny Island is wildly popular among all sorts of adventurers.

The Adalary rocks are not islands of the Black Sea, in terms of their status, but they are the same twin rocks in Gurzuf, the image of which is familiar to everyone from childhood. They stand near the seashore. According to legend, two brothers decided to use the gifts of the Sea King to win the hearts of two twin girls. One of the gifts - a bone rod - spread the abyss to the sides, and it could only be used to gain new knowledge and nothing more. Angered by the brothers' goal, God cruelly punished them and their beautiful sisters. Since then they have risen among the surface of the sea Adalary rocks- the bodies of two brothers and two sisters merged into one.

Legends of the Black Sea are rich in legends and history. But the most outstanding of them, perhaps, Berezan Island. During the times of Kievan Rus, this particular island was called Buyan - the same one on which Princess Swan built the city. That one, Pushkinsky, with heroes emerging from the sea, a squirrel gnawing golden nuts, and golden-domed churches that grew out of the ground.

The legends of the Black Sea are diverse and written by different peoples. On a cruise to the islands, you can see with your own eyes these wonderful creations of nature or the gods and feel the history and mystery of centuries.

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Many interesting discoveries await you on your trip to the Black Sea islands. You can go down to the bottom of the sunken ships and find something interesting as a souvenir. Even on the islands themselves you may find some ancient fragments.

The Black Sea is a paradise not only for avid fishermen. Fans of underwater hunting will also find a worthy activity. In almost all Black Sea resorts you can find specialized bases that are ready to provide you with the entire set of equipment.

Diving in the Black Sea and other ways to diversify your trip.
Make your trip to the Black Sea more interesting and memorable! The choice is great: for all tastes and desires. Think over in advance your determination to take part in certain sea activities, given that some of them are quite extreme.

In the Black Sea. Officially, it is uninhabited, but its rich nature, unique climate, white sandy beaches and calm, warm sea attract thousands of tourists during the holiday season.

Story

Archaeological finds discovered on the island indicate that its territory was inhabited during the Neolithic and Bronze Ages. The island of Dzharylgach is mentioned in many works of ancient authors, such as, for example, Ptolemy and Herodotus, and the myth about the emergence of the Dzharylgach spit, which connects the island to the coast, arose during the Trojan War. There is also an assumption that the island where Odysseus and his soldiers were captured by the one-eyed Cyclops is Dzharylgach. This is evidenced by the texts of Homer, which describe the deserted Goat Island, located near the coast and covered with dense forest, where many wild goats live. In the northern part of the Black Sea, where these events are known to have taken place, there is no other such island. As for the forest, which is not currently on the island, in translation from Turkic “dzharylgach” means scorched forest or scorched trees. There is also a version that the island became the prototype of Buyan, described by A.S. Pushkin in his famous poem.

Geographical features

Dzharylgach Island - Kherson region of Ukraine. It is located near the northwestern coast of the Black Sea, eight km from the city of Skadovsk, and belongs to the Skadovsky district. The area it occupies is 62 square meters. km, and its length is 42 km. The western part of the island is connected by a narrow spit to the village of Lazurnoe. On its territory there are many that occupy 8% of the total area. The landscape belongs to the liman-sea lowlands. The maximum height of the relief above sea level does not exceed 0.5 m. The shores of the island are washed by Dzharylgach and

Nature

Due to the fact that, starting in 1923, the island of Dzharylgach was part of the Askania Nova reserve, and since 1927 it became part of the Primorsky reserve, it was possible to preserve the amazing, almost untouched nature there. Today there is a national natural park here, created to preserve the historical, cultural and natural values ​​of the northern coast.

Despite the fact that almost the entire territory of the island is steppe, its flora is very rich. About 500 plant species grow here, 50 of which are endemic, that is, found only in a limited area. Among them are 7 species from the orchid family.

The fauna of the island is even more impressive. Here you can find 15 species of mammals, including red deer, mouflon, roe deer, fallow deer, and raccoon dogs. There is an incredibly wide variety of insects on the island, from colorful butterflies to karakurts that frighten tourists, not to mention the clouds of mosquitoes and midges.

The marine fauna is rich in shrimp, crabs, mussels, various types of fish, as well as the ubiquitous jellyfish. From the shore you can often see dolphins, of which there are 3 species: bottlenose dolphin, porpoise and white-sided dolphin.

Climate

The climatic conditions on the island are perfect for families with children. In winter, the temperature does not fall below -2 0 C, and in summer it does not exceed +25 + 28 0 C. Air humidity, given the maritime environment, is quite high, but cool air currents coming from the continent in the warm season prevent the climate from being too hot . It rarely rains here; the average annual precipitation does not exceed 400 mm. Sea air is rich in iodine compounds released by seaweed, as well as ozone and oxygen. Mixed with the smells of local herbs, it creates an indescribable, memorable aroma.

Sea

One of the features of the island is its versatility in terms of recreation. The bay separating Dzharylgach Island from the coast is shallow, which allows the water to warm up to 30 0 C on the hottest days. Thanks to sunlight and shallow depth, entire underwater meadows are formed at the bottom, attracting numerous marine inhabitants in the form of fish and shellfish. There are never big waves on this side of the island. Long sandy beaches of coarse white sand and shallow depths make swimming in the sea as safe as possible, so this area is ideal for families with children. Photos of the island of Dzharylgach, with its azure calm sea and snow-white sand on endless beaches, taken in good sunny weather, are reminiscent of images of the beaches of Thailand. On the opposite side, the island is washed by cool waters brought by underwater currents. The sea here is deeper and more choppy, which attracts fans of surfing, diving, fishing and other entertainment.

Rest on Dzharylgach Island

There are no tourist centers, sanatoriums or private boarding houses on the island itself, but in the summer there are plenty of tourists here. They come from the coast to sunbathe on deserted beaches, admire the beauty of Dzharylgach Bay, see animals in their natural environment, or simply relax in the lap of almost wild nature. Some settle down for a long time, setting up tents right on the beach. This place has attracted and continues to attract nudists from the countries of the former USSR. They have their own beaches, traditions and rules here. Knowledgeable people come here to improve their health with the help of healing mud, which they themselves extract near the salt lakes.

Those who decide to relax on the island as a savage should take into account that among the “conveniences” there is only one source of fresh water, it will also not be possible to make a fire without bringing firewood with you due to the lack of trees, and hordes of mosquitoes will not allow you to enjoy the sunset in peace. But even such inconveniences do not stop those who want to enjoy the pristine nature and visit the island of Dzharylgach. Reviews about such a vacation are very diverse, but most agree that the impressions of such adventures will last a lifetime.

Attractions

The only attraction of the island, excluding the sea, beaches, flora and fauna, is the old lighthouse, installed on the east coast of the island in 1902 with the money of S. Skadovsky. It is known that the lighthouse was designed in France by one of G. Eiffel’s students and brought here disassembled. What is surprising is that in appearance it resembles the famous Eiffel Tower. Not far from here is a new one, installed in 1997. Some tourists who come to the island spend the night in the new lighthouse.

How to get there

You shouldn’t worry too much if you come to Skadovsk or Lazurnoe, but don’t know how and how to get to Dzharylgach Island by transport. The friendly local population will tell you how to get there and what to do, some of whose representatives make money by organizing such excursions. You can get there on your own. The easiest and safest way is to take the ferry in Skadovsk and within an hour you can calmly sunbathe on the beach. You can also walk across the spit from the Lazurny side, but you will have to walk all day, and this route is quite dangerous, since the spit sometimes washes out.

July was already coming to an end, and we still hadn’t planned our summer vacation. Somehow things aren't working out that way this year. At first we couldn’t take a vacation at the same time, and then we languished for hours looking for a more or less uncrowded place. And yet they found paradise on the Black Sea: Cape Dzharylgach.

Dzharylgach is the largest island in Ukraine. It is also famous for its uninhabited nature. When we arrived and saw that there were really almost no vacationers there, my soul rejoiced. And now more about how we got there.

Dzharylgach Island is located in the Kherson region, about an hour by boat from the city of Skadovsk. Since there are no trains to Skadovsk, we bought bus tickets. 10 hours on the road and now we are looking for the central beach, from where boats depart to the island.

Words are superfluous when unearthly beauty opens before your eyes. Having disembarked from the boat, we simply threw our bags on the sand and admired the sea, sky and white sand. Having recovered a little from the initial delight, we began to slowly settle in. The sea was calm, so we settled down on the very shore. Need I mention that we took a lot of things with us, from tents, umbrellas, tiles, to mosquito repellents, which were very useful.

The next day we immediately went swimming. The sea was so warm and the water clean that I didn’t want to get out of it. The downside was the huge jellyfish, but we got used to them too. A huge surprise for us were the dolphins, who frolicked near the shore and delighted our eyes. It was truly excellent.
After breakfast with fruit and bread brought from Skadovsk, we went to the towers for water. They say they were designed by Eiffel himself, so this place also has a French spirit. And although they no longer look so good, in our memory they remain an integral part of the island.

We were very lucky, as the weather was simply wonderful all days, and the sea was warm and calm. The following days of rest, we walked around the island, from time to time meeting knurs and raccoons (mostly in the evening). And when we wandered deeper into the island, we discovered a real savannah with deer, fallow deer and mouflon. I admit, I saw the latter for the first time, so my emotions simply went off scale.

I almost forgot to tell you about the lagoon with swans, which we also discovered on an island not far from the lakes. I admit, the last thing I expected was to see these proud birds here. Dzharylgach was created by nature to surprise.

We entertained ourselves with volleyball, football, playing cards and evening conversations by the sea. No internet for 7 days. And I’ll tell you, this is real happiness.
While on vacation, we enjoyed the most beautiful sunsets every evening. Pink, white, rich yellow, all these colors intertwined into one whole and created real masterpieces against the backdrop of the endless sea.

Dolphins on Dzharylgach Island (Black Sea, Ukraine)

I didn’t want to go home at all. We became so attached to this place that returning to the bustling metropolis became a real hard labor. We walked from the island by boat in complete silence and eagerly photographed every corner of this place with our eyes.

Bottom line

The island of Dzharylgach is a great place for those who love a relaxing holiday. There is no entertainment on the island. You definitely need to take a tile with you, since there is nowhere to collect wood for the fire. Also take an umbrella, because you can get seriously sunburned in the sun. I also recommend that you take a good mood with you and boldly go to meet dolphins, gorgeous nature and unforgettable sunsets.

How to get there by car

The highest quality road is Kyiv-Odessa-Nikolaev-Kherson-Skadovsk. Distance 780 km. There are bad sections of the road, but mostly the road is good. Travel time is 8-9 hours.

How to get there by public transport

By night train to Kherson. From the railway station there are private minibuses that will take you to Skadovsk for 100 hryvnia and 1.5 hours.

Participant information

All participants in the hike fulfilled the standards and have the “Tourist of Ukraine” badge. We have completed hikes of I and II degrees of difficulty in the Kherson region and Crimea, have been training in the club for 3-9 years, and have completed an NTP course.

General characteristics of the travel area
Dzharylgach Island, translated from Turkic means “scorched trees”, is located in the south of the Kherson region. Its area is 56 thousand hectares. The length of the island from West to East along the coast is about 49 km. From the western part, for 20 km, the island is a spit with a width of 50 to 300 m.

There is no fresh water here; there are isolated groves of low-growing trees. On the edge of the spit, near the narrowest place, there is a lighthouse. The expansion of the island begins from the lighthouse; at its widest point it has a length of 5 km. For 12 km from the lighthouse there is a treeless area, there are only isolated trees. Further on, forest plantations of willow, individual groves and shrubs begin.
On the extreme eastern part of the island there are two lighthouses:
one, built in 1902 by landowner S.B. Skadovsky, is not in working order. The other, built in 1999, operates in automatic mode.
Near the lighthouses there is a good spring, from which it is 1 km to the extreme eastern point of the island. From the lighthouses, 7 km inland and 1.5 km from the sea, there is a forester’s house, near which there is a water tower.
There are three sources of drinking water on the island: in the eastern part of the island near the lighthouses, near the forester’s house and on the pier of Dzharylgach Island from the bay. Near the pier of Dzharylgach Island on the bay side there is a beach with canopies, cafes are open, and yachting, horseback riding, water skiing and banana boat rides are organized.
The soil is sandy and very uncomfortable for walking.

Organization of the trip
The basis of preparation for the hike was regular training, which necessarily included morning physical exercises and general physical training.
The participants of the hike spent a year in a hiking club. Participated in training in orienteering and hiking techniques in the Tsyurupinsky forest. We went through the NTP school at the Robinson tourist club, secondary school No. 4.
Several walking tours were carried out in the Tsyurupinsky district, in which the physical fitness of the participants was tested, and skills in hiking and orienteering techniques were developed.
The tasks of the group included:
– passage of Dzharylgach Island from West to East and in the middle part from South to North;
– familiarization with the flora and fauna of the island;
– checking the physical, technical and psychological preparation of participants to overcome the route;
– familiarization with historical events in the territory through which the route passed.

Technical description of the trip

Daily Transit Schedule

Local history work along the route
On the territory of modern Skadovsk people lived in ancient times. During archaeological excavations in the Morskaya Koshara and Tsukur tracts, several mounds with Bronze Age burials, burials of Scythians, Sarmatians, and nomads of the 11th-13th centuries were uncovered.
Skadovsk was founded in 1894. large landowner S.B. Skadovsky on the site of the small fishing settlement of Ali-Agok (“quiet harbor” - Turkic). By that time, the Kherson steppes had already become the region of developed grain farming. Landowners often rented out or sold small areas of land to peasants under enslaving conditions. In 1899, the Skadovsky landowner sold 900 personal plots to settlers for a period of 24 years with a payment of 30 rubles. annually for each plot. If payment was not made on time, the land became the property of the landowner along with all buildings.
Migrants from Ochakov, Aleshki, and Kherson arrived in Skadovsk. At the end of the nineteenth century. it already had about two thousand inhabitants, 400 houses built of adobe and baked brick. The population was engaged in agriculture, trade, and crafts. Some residents earned extra money by transporting and loading agricultural products onto sea vessels.
Even before the revolution, Skadovsk was known as a resort. However, it developed primarily as a seaport, which played an important role in the export of agricultural products abroad. A 600-meter wooden bridge on stilts was built from the shore into the depths of the Dzharylgach Bay, to which tugboats with barges were moored, which then transported cargo to sea vessels moored in the roadstead. In 1898, a harbor (bucket) was built, which made it possible for ships to approach directly to the shore.
The port's importance grew. At the beginning of the twentieth century. 8-10 ships from England, Germany, Greece, Sweden and other countries came to Skadovsk annually. The main export items were wheat. wool, astrakhan fur.
Recently, Skadovsky district has become a region of tourism. Every year its geography expands more and more. Here you can meet travelers from different parts of our country and the CIS.
One of the exciting travel routes: Skadovsk - Dzharylgach Island. This route is the most popular among many guests of the small seaside town. Every day, thousands of people go to the island by the motor ship “Reutsky” along the Dzharylgach Bay of the Black Sea.
The area of ​​the Dzharylgach Bay is 230 km 2, length – 35 km, width – from 5 to 10 km, maximum depth – 7.7 meters. The bottom of the shallow bay is covered with sea grass - zoster. It forms large underwater meadows. Numerous marine animals find shelter and food here. The bay is home to a variety of fish: gobies, horse mackerel, mullet, and mussels. In recent years, mussels have been appearing more and more in the bay. Mussels are often called the orderlies of the sea. One mollusk passes through itself up to 70 liters of water per day.
The history of the origin of Dzharylgach Island is interesting. As you know, the coast of the Northern Black Sea region is indented by bays and estuaries. Numerous islands, peninsulas and sand spits have formed here. Scientists suggest that this is due to the activity of the ancient Dnieper, which in the distant geological past in its lower reaches changed its course several times. The waters of the mighty river carried a huge amount of sand into the sea, resulting in the formation of a sand spit - the island of Dzharylgach. After millennia, the Dnieper again deviated to the west. An expedition of archaeologists from the USSR Academy of Sciences in the 60s discovered traces of Neolithic and Bronze Age sites on the island. Ancient authors - Herodotus, Pliny the Elder, Ptolemy - testify that the island was once covered with forest. The forest survived into the Middle Ages, as evidenced by its very name “Dzharylgach” (“scorched trees” - Turkic). Before the revolution, the island had pastures for the camels of the landowner Skadovsky.
In 1902, a lighthouse was installed here, made in Paris at the expense of S.B. Skadovsky. This is an openwork metal tower with a central cylindrical part. For more than 80 years, the Dzharylgach lighthouse at night, in fog and storm was a reliable guide for sailors. Now all beacon devices have been dismantled. The metal cylinder and beams are covered with rust, with dents and holes from bullets and shrapnel visible here and there. Here, in November 1941, Soviet sailors died a brave death. Sea waves are gradually destroying the shore and lighthouse structures. Two stone warehouses have been preserved - the last refuge of sailors. The lighthouse itself has already become a historical relic.
In 1999, a new one was built next to the old lighthouse, operating in automatic mode.
During the civil war, the deserted shores of Dzharylgach saw warships of the Greek invaders, who, under the pressure of the Red partisans, were forced to leave our territorial waters.
One of the pages of the history of the Great Patriotic War is also connected with the island. In September 1941 The command of the Black Sea Fleet left a reconnaissance group of 17 sailors on the island, led by Petty Officer 2nd Article Ivan Kochetkov. They monitored the deployment and movement of fascist ships and aircraft and reported them to the command in Crimea.
Days passed. The sailors successfully carried out their watch. One day, radio operator Nikolai Surmach, from his observation post at the lighthouse, noticed that the Nazis were gathering large forces in the area of ​​​​the port of Khorly: they were preparing to break through our defenses on Perekop. A radiogram was immediately sent about this from Dzharylgach. On the same day, the cruiser Voroshilov appeared in the Khorlov roadstead. Having opened fire on the enemy, he inflicted significant damage on him.
At the beginning of October, the detachment of Soviet soldiers on the island was replenished: a reconnaissance and sabotage group led by Commissar Vinogradov arrived from Crimea. From that time on, sabotage was carried out in Skadovsk, Khorly, and Zhelezny Port, causing considerable “concern” to the Nazis.
One day, Commissar Vinogradov and his group conducted a sabotage raid into the village of Novoalekseevka (now Lazurnoe). The operation was successful: the sailors blew up the oil depot and captured the “tongue” - a fascist officer. At dawn, when they were returning to Dzharylgach, a German Messerschmitt appeared above their boat and, in a low-level flight, began shooting at point-blank Soviet sailors. That morning, 12 of the 30 warriors died. Among them is Commissioner Vinogradov.
After this, an enemy reconnaissance plane began circling over Dzharylgach at the same time. However, the sailors skillfully disguised themselves. Then the Nazis decided to land troops. They approached the island, but the sailors noticed them in time and took up defensive positions. This time the Nazis failed to land.
In mid-November, a detachment of five thousand Nazi punitive forces landed on the island. In an unequal, fierce battle, most of the island's defenders died. The Nazis, under heavy escort, sent several wounded sailors to a prisoner of war camp in Nikolaev. One of them, N. Surmach, managed to escape.
Today, a monument built on the island reminds of the feat of the heroes of Dzharylgach.
In 1944, after the liberation of Skadovsk from the Nazis, there was an air surveillance, warning and communications post on the island. Three Soviet sailors served on it. Communication with the mainland was maintained by radio.
Dzharylgach is a unique corner of the pristine arid steppe. In lowland areas there are salt marshes, sometimes turning into semi-deserts, covered with xerophytes - plants adapted to life in arid habitats. In October 1974, the botanical reserve “Dzharylgach” was organized on the island - a natural monument of republican significance. On the territory of the reserve with an area of ​​300 hectares, the only population of golden beard in the south of Ukraine is preserved.
Skadovsky Forestry Agency has been landscaping the desert island for many years. The forest area already occupies more than a thousand hectares. True, so far the survival rate of trees and shrubs is very low: out of 25 species, only six have taken root. These are silver oleaster, ailanthus, poplar, tamarisk, golden currant and amphorna chagarnik. We started cultivating rose hips and sea buckthorn.
Dzharylgach is a wonderful place for migratory birds to rest. Swans and ducks swim in the calm waters of the shallow bay. In autumn and early winter there are especially many coots.
About 30 years ago, deer were brought to the island. They have settled down well here. Recently mouflons and fallow deer appeared here. Lots of pheasants and partridges.
The bottomless blue of the sky imperceptibly merges with the aquamarine of the vast distance of the southern sea. The air is clean and transparent. And pristine silence.

Conclusions and recommendations
1. Due to the fact that strong winds blow from the sea on the island and the soil is sandy, it is necessary to have good tent poles, pegs, and reinforced rain awnings.
2. You have to walk mainly along the beach along the sea, sand with shells - you need to have good shoes.
3. All participants must undergo pre-hiking “acclimatization”, more precisely, they must spend a couple of weekends lying on the beach in the sun, or they will have to walk the initial part of the journey in clothes until they adapt to the scorching sun.
4. If the route starts from the West of the village. Lazurnoe, then you need to have a water supply of 45 km.
5. There is a poisonous spider on the island, the bite of which is fatal; it is necessary to take precautions when searching for firewood and moving.
6. The boat from Skadovsk runs only in summer and 4 times a day: at 8:00, 9:00, 11:00, 17:00.

Literature
1. Skadovsk. Guide. V.V. Timoshenko. Simferopol. Publishing house "Tavria", 1986
2. Natural monuments of the Kherson region. A.E. Virlich. Simferopol. Publishing house
3. Medical guide for tourists. A.A. Kostrub. – 2nd ed. reworked and additional - M.: Profizdat, 1990.

Personal impressions
The all-pervading sun melts even brains. Around – Sun, Air and Water. The fruits of civilization protected us from hunger and cold, but tore us away from the Earth, from Nature. Travel partially returns us to the life of our ancestors, when we can again, albeit temporarily, become closer to nature. The lungs are intoxicated by the fresh breeze, without which one could melt in such a scorching sun. The soles of the feet are intensively kneaded with myriads of grains of sand and shells. The weight of the backpack is felt, but not so much that it becomes unbearably exhausting. Younger children perceive everything with puppyish delight. Older guys are more reserved.

Damn work didn't give me the opportunity to get an initial level of tan. You have to go in a T-shirt, although you still shouldn’t wear a backpack on your bare back; you can easily chafe your shoulders. I stopped being afraid of the sun only on the fourth day, after my arms, which were burned up to the elbows, got over the pain.
The weather is unstable - from the scorching sun at its zenith to partly cloudy skies, flickering lightning, distant rumbles of thunder and even light drizzle. For the most part, the sun still prevails, although the second night was quite alarming for me - before falling asleep, I kept waiting for the waves to begin to overwhelm the tent...

Fauna. Mostly these are a variety of birds, but we saw a stingray twice, and if the first time Kolya bravely pierced it with a sharp stick, and the stingray turned out to be dead even without this, then the second time the stingray was, although smaller, but alive. After the noise we made, he retreated somewhere deeper. We saw dolphins several times. Twice they frolicked in shallow water very close to us, about five meters away. One of them loudly slapped its tail on the water, as if welcoming us, several times in a row.
The flora on the spit is quite poor, stunted trees and stunted greenery, not counting a few green oases - near the forester's house and the Eastern lighthouse.
In the evening, a lively bustle began near the lighthouse, with the roar of the motor boats of shrimp catchers who had sailed from Skadovsk to fish. Looks like the catch was a success...

Old lighthouse. A spiral staircase, sunbeams through the portholes, orderly rows of rivets. An incomprehensible excitement awakens in the soul - every dent here breathes antiquity. The view from the top of the lighthouse is breathtaking. The turquoise water from above seems absolutely transparent and only slight excitement prevents you from seeing what is hidden in the depths of the sea. Towards evening, the ghostly rocky shores of the Crimean Peninsula, more than 25 km away, appear from the haze in the southeast. The unreality of what is happening is breathtaking.

Return trip. Transition to the pier through thickets of reeds and salty puddles. There is sadness in the air - a sure sign that the hike will soon end. Behind the stern of the boat, lazy blue-green waves scatter, gently shaking the ubiquitous thickets of algae. The difference between the sea and the bay is too great. Skadovsk greets you with scatterings of lazy bodies on the beach, melting asphalt and concrete crumbs on the pier. The soles of the feet, hardened and accustomed to sand and shells, are fried as if in a frying pan. Well, here we are back in the bosom of civilization. Farewell, Dzharylgach...
No, don't say goodbye. See you later, Dzharylgach. There are not many miracles in our harsh world, and Dzharylgach is one of them. We will be back.